Good journey day in Albarracin´s forest, trying the line that links two super classics like Manu and Ines Chakra boulders, this line was first climbed by Leah Crane, just 2 days ago I did the 4th ascent to this hard line. It was a good day in Albarracin, but we're still waiting for the cold wind, who bring the real grip.
Well, I do not have any exciting news this time… It has been a frustrating couple of weeks for me. All my preparations have been made, I know the pitches, the gear necessary and have stashed water for an ascent, yet unfortunately I have been lacking two vital things: a good enough weather and a climbing partner. There have been short windows of opportunity, and time when in retrospect I could maybe have climbed, but after my last experience I have been hesitant to start with a marginal forecast.
Yup, I've finally experienced my very first hiatus, my temporary separation from my rock, my girlfriend - climbing. The time spent away filled with hours and hours and hours of work stacked up like I never thought possible, with stress, with some mild success and namely excitement - and at times, of course, disappointment. My life realized as a physician in-training. What's worse? A separation would not be complete if not both physical and mental. I lost some desire to climb.
Check out this video of Five Ten sponsored athlete Adam Henry climbing at HorsePens 40 in the new Blackwing.
Between July and August 4 Portuguese climbers went to Pakistan to open new big wall routes in Charakusa Valley. During a year in which this country had the worst floods in the last 90 years, just reaching the mountain was a big adventure! Because of that they need to reorganize the expedition and open a new route in Karakorum.
After the bad weather hit Magic Wood, crushing my hopes of finishing off Practice of the Wild V15 (I’ve never been so close to a boulder, and not been able to finish it!), I was psyched to find a new project close to home. Cresciano provided the answer: The Dagger V14. I finished off The Dagger V14 today on my 3rd day of effort. So f***ing psyched! Very intense on the core and the toe-hooks.