We arrived in Arkansas just as the summer temps seamed to be rolling in. Ronnie and I picked up out contact Charlie at the OBG (Ozark Bouldering Gym.) Charlie took us to a local roof, minutes from the gym we had a demo scheduled for. After a taste of sandstone we went back to the OBG. The gym was small but definitely packed a punch. Great angles and psyched locals. Everyone dug the shoes, and after the demo we chilled out some local legends.
It is a well known fact that the Buttermilks of Bishop, CA are known for their highballs. It only takes one visit, or one glance at a photograph, to realize how big the granite boulders are and how unique the geology is. However, had it not been for the events of the mid to late 1980's, and a climb called Transporter Room, the Buttermilks may be known for the country's shortest sport climbs instead.
Hit up Smith Rock this last week over Spring Break. It was my third time there and I'm just starting to get use to the unique climbing style. The park is absolutely beautiful and would definitely recommend climbing there if you can. I sent Aggro Monkey, 5.13b on my third attempt...this route was really hard for me because of the powerful moves. I also flashed Vision, 5.12b, and onsighted Kings of Rap, 512d. Working on my endurance, I was able to put 3 good laps in on my previous ascent of Churning in the Wake, 5.13a.
Chinese Water Torture on Gear - This winter has been super fun here in Ouray, CO, where conditions have been great for Ice and Mixed climbing. I had the great opportunity to climb lots with my good friend Steve House and also learn about training from him. All that training has paid off, so far I'm 2 for 2 with winter projects. The first one was a M12 that is called The Grand Traverse Of the Cave a super great route in a cool cave above Ouray.
Finally! The good meteorology has arrived and with it, a lot of motivation and good routes!
Yet again, the Five Ten Arrowhead has won the honor of Editor's Choice... this time by Urban Climbing Magazine's Julie Ellison. "Shoes get better and better, and these are damn near perfect."