I can finally (so happily) say, that last month I made the first "1 push" ascent of Joy Division - The big wall in Val di Mello I have been working on all summer. The story of the ascent is long, too long for right now as I am rushing out to go training, but thankfully, The North Face has just released an incredible video along with a small write-up and some pretty pictures.
Last weekend my compadres and I found that all the populous of the east coast seemed to only have autumn foliage on their mind. Such was reflected at the Shawangunks, just outside of New Paltz, wheretraffic was dense, travel slow, and sleeping quarters were scarce amongst the throngs of hikers, tourists, cyclists, and decidedly fewer climbers.
Well well, it's high time to write about one of the best trip I've ever done in my life, the Petzl Roc Trip in Getu Valley. In my eyes, it was a journey in an inconnu world. A world with another rhythm of life, time and people. Erwann Lelann transformed this lost place in China in a kind of a climbing paradise with a minimum of structure. Structure in China will never be the same as in Europe or America and for us foreigners, everything was just crazy and incredible.
So last week was my first competition and it was a great success. It was the first competition the Calgary Climbing Centre had had put on in two years and it was amazing. There were sixty routes, over 150 competitors and people came out from all over including BC, Edmonton, Lethbridge and Canmore. Lots of fun with great people. The competition was finished with a slack line competition. I would have thought I would have won the slack lining with my strip tease performance, but apparently no one wants to see that.
Sonnie and I are still tinkering away on the Prophet. Trotter is leading the charge. I think it’s really interesting to look at how the very best trad climbers operate on the sharp end. I would put Sonnie in a really small group of people I’ve climbed with that are truly built for hard, scary rock climbing. Skill plays a huge part. Strength plays a huge part. But an innate positivity is the biggest factor, I think. When the house of cards begins to collapse for me, I start losing the optimistic edge, and everything seems to spiral towards...