Tucked away in the middle of Vancouver Island is an incredible limestone amphitheater with dozes of steep, classic sport climbs. Several times a year, my girlfriend Vikki and I shell out the $143 ferry fare and make the Journey to Horne Lake. Its an expensive weekend trip, but the climbing is well worth it. The wall is littered with tuffas, pods, and gigantic huecos, making for excellent 3-d climbing.
Sport Climbing on Vancouver Island by Ryan Olson
We spent 4 days there over Canada Day long weekend, and Vikki had a very productive trip. She managed to send a classic 5.13c called Globe Trotters, as well as a variation start called Fast Cat, also 5.13c. Both of these routes were originally graded 5.13d, but better beta and the discovery of several key kneebars has made them a bit easier. I had done Globe trotters on a previous trip, but I was happy to send Fast Cat on this trip. My main focus was a classic 5.14a called Dinosaur Highway. It's a very long route, and my endurance was not quite up to the challenge. On the last day I fell at the last bolt before the anchors, a bit agonizing as there are 16 bolts on the route. I'm excited to head back this fall and give it another attempt.
Two days after we got back I tweaked my right biceps muscle training in the gym. I've been resting since then, trying to make sure I'm healthy before I start to push myself again. I've decided to sit out this year's trade show competition to be safe. While I really wanted to do the comp, I know I will have many more to do in the future if I'm smart about injuries. I hope everyone is staying healthy and having excellent summers!