I moved to Salt Lake 8 years ago because I felt then, and still believe, it is the best place to live if you want to climb all the time. I know there are plenty of people who argue with that, but it has worked for me.
While here I have traveled to Turkey, Europe, all over the U.S.A. and of course climbed in countless areas in Utah. Yet, somehow in the last 8 years I have managed to never climb in Logan Canyon except for the last two weekends.
What the hell is wrong with me? I asked myself as I warmed up on some amazing limestone at Fucoidal. The climbs are slightly over-hanging and technical, which I love. I would rather lock off on credit-card size crimps in the sun, than huck myself from jug to jug in a cave, seriously. With that said, I couldn't climb in Logan without checking out the China Cave.
The first route I got on is called Oboe, and I bungled a sequence and fell up top. After that, I hoped nobody would mind if I just ate cookies and watched them climb -- remember, I hate hucking. Well, Mike cared. He made me get back on, and I sent Oboe on the go, which was nice. I really enjoyed the top of the climb which forces you to lock off on small crimps and flag a little.
There is one climb I would like to work on in the cave. Can you guess? It's called Crimp Fest. Other than that, I am psyched to drive the 100 miles back up there and explore the other cliffs Logan has to offer. It also doesn't hurt that my friend Pace has a 5star yurt with beautiful views of the mountains and the most comfy bunk beds.
Logan has made me realize, you don't always know how good you have it, and this summer I don't need to go to Maple every weekend.