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Between storms

Between storms
Between storms
April 29, 2010 -  chris schulte    

First ascent in Boulder Canyon, CO.


Spring carries on.. Scattered t-storms tomorrow, an nice day, then a bad weekend, then a great monday, ect. ect. Sort of a different mindset than the winter season, where it's usually the body that tires out before the will, or psyche, or skin.. Here for awhile we do some waiting, and some climbing in some weather that'll do, for getting out of the house, anyways. Though you might spend a couple days in side at a time, when the string of good weather comes, no matter how small the window, you can (hopefully) swing through projects with all that pent-up chi. I've spent a bit of time wandering around the hills and canyons, and finding new boulders is, in my mind, what makes bouldering fun (at the moment, anyways). I find things in the back country all the time; no surprises. More often than you think, you'll find things sitting in the middle of very familiar grounds, and more than once I've cried out "WHY has no-one done THIS!?" like some aesthetic crime has been committed against climbing. So, with that sentiment in mind, I was pretty surprised to find an amazing, difficult, long, steep compression line on good stone in an amazing setting, that just happens to be an extension to an existing problem. When you walk up and down so much, you can forget things as years go by, and when you come back to them, it's like a familiar face and a new toy all at once. I saw this line years ago, when I first moved up to Boulder from Durango, and thought.. way too hard for me. Yikes. To come back to something like that and feel stronger, to SEE the line in that new light, instead of with a shrug and a wave.. That's darn cool.

Long story short, cleaned it, worked it over the course of a month, and climbed it this morning before the sun got on the slopers. Nice and windy in the canyon today, and the crux pinch felt better than it ever has; all the holds did, thankfully. There's a lot of ground to cover, and the difficulty increases as you climb, getting harder, and the landing dropping away. Sticking the first jump was the moment of sorta waking up, coming to, and realizing it's time to START TRYING! The last foot cutting move, followed by a lunge over a bulge, were "just hafta do it." The ground under the Mondo pads is a pile of microwaves and milk crates, big box TVs and beer fridges, tho made of granite, and I think about the moves like climbing over the deep ocean: you know it's fulla monsters, but you'll be okay as long as nothing stupid happens. So you spend a lotta days rehearsing things so this doesn't happen, and the nice day comes, the last lurch move sticks, and you don't get eaten by the sharks.

At twenty steep moves 'til your standing on the juggy slab (that's Hand Moves, obv. There are so many foot moves, toe hooks, HEELS, pinches and scums, the whole foot.. I used the Team Shoe), it's one of the longest problems I've ever done.

After a month of this and the Sport Park project, I think I'd like to maybe go sport climbing for a couple weeks maybe..

Here's a couple of cleaning day pics on the first week of april, some more photos (and video) eventually..

PS: to those of you interested in trying this one,or any of the climbs in the area, please observe the closure and use legal access points.

-chris schulte


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