Lately I've been trying to get back in shape after my 3 month break and finger injury. I've found some new ways of training my endurance and power endurance (or at least to me) that have been more effective then how I trained in the past.
Zac McGurk shares some of his training tips
Most people I've talked to are pretty familiar with 4x4's. Basically, you pick 4 boulder problems that are fairly hard for you but you can still climb each time. You climb these 4, back to back with no rest in between and do this 4 times. The rest time between sets is supposed to be roughly equal to the time it took you to complete all 4 boulder problems. I had never tried these until recently and I find my power endurance has been improving very quickly.
I have made a very small change to the way I train endurance and I find it to be much harder and it has various benefits. Basically before I started training I broke down my training into endurance, recovery and power endurance. They are all different and should be trained differently. I looked at the definition of endurance as the ability to climb for a long period of time without getting pumped. When I used to train endurance, I would do laps around the local gym, climbing and stopping to stake out when I started to get pumped. I could climb for ever on good holds and not get pumped. Basically the only change that I've made is taking out stopping and recovering. I have found that it has done 2 things for my climbing.
1. Pacing myself. I'm learning to climbing at a slower, more controlled pace. This has helped me to keep my breathing under control, not panic and climb technically better. All of which have helped me get less pumped and climb better.
2. Shaking. I've been getting into the habit of shaking between holds, which helps you get a little bit back in between moves. Small shakes in between holds in a tough, sustain section, can make a huge difference.
I've done less training then in the past, but the quality of my training has been much better and I find that it's making a huge difference.Hope this helps for any one who is maybe looking for some new ways to train.