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Update from Italian Climber Gabriele Moroni

 
Update from Italian Climber Gabriele Moroni
Update from Italian Climber Gabriele Moroni
 
April 09, 2010 -  Gabriele Moroni    
 

Last monday we drove to Chironico to see how the granite felt like!... Weather has been crazy in the last days and we arrived welcomed by a few centimeters of fresh snow that fell during the night! The snow quickly melted down and neither let the blocs wet thanks to the dry wind blowing!! This means conditions for climbing were perfect!

First we went to Boogalagga sector. After a small warm up we put the pads under a cool problem called Confession of a Crap Artist! Very nice line and a bit tall too... Roosa, the strong Finnish girl, was trying it so we added some extra pads in change of some good beta!... Thanks to the perfect beta we all succeeded! Me and Miki flash, Niki second go, Simo and Roosa in a few goes!! Such a great problem!

The grade was originally 8a but I'm sure very good methods have been found and the grade now is in the 7c range!

 

A few minutes later Niki and I climbed it again from the low start. Low start adds 5 more not so easy moves to the stand start and makes the grade come up to 8a more or less!... I remember I read somewhere that Jorg Verhoeven opened this problem some years ago and called it Wrap Artist!

Later on we moved just 100 meters downhill so the others could try the amazing Boogalagga 8b! I climbed it last year and in my opinion is one of the best problems in the world at that grade!!Perfect rock,perfect holds and features,great moves!...Meanwhile they tried it I gave a couple attempts at the nearby 8a(?)Walker on Heart but my fat fingers didn't help me at all on this bloc... None of my fingers really fit in the start mono except the pinky and sometimes the annular. Once I did the mono move with the first part of my annular finger but I fell afterwards like a stupid.

After another couple of false starts I decided to give up... too painful, not for the tendon but for the nail, I felt like it was going to break. Miki climbed Boogalagga in about a hour! I was sure he was going to send it very fast it is really his perfect style...good job! Then we walked to another great 8a called Miss Schweiz. Simo and Miki climbed it again very fast, Niki and I repeated it for some photos.

At the end of the day we moved again to another sector to try an 8a roof none of us had ever tried before, named The Alphane Moon!

This problem is located in a big cave with a few projects I think. I remembered the beta from a video and I flashed it. So happy! Niki followed sending it second go! Nice! Finally a great day of bouldering with good friends good fun and good conditions!

Blog post from www.gabriele-moroni.blogspot.com

 

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