Boyz in the Hood is a mythical boulder problem hidden in the town of Truckee, CA. It was first established by the Tahoe legend Charlie Barrett in the early 2000’s. At the time of its ascent it was the hardest boulder problem in Tahoe and has the reputation of being impossible. The problem reached mythical statues within the local bouldering community and for years the problem sat unrepeated. A few years ago the second ascent finally fell to Joel Zerr and since then the popularity of the problem has increased and the lack of information has been broken. Currently the problem has seen many ascents and its mythical statues has decreased, but the grade has reached a consensus at V12.
Boyz in the Hood - Urs Moosmuller
Over the years I heard small rumors about the boulder containing a wicked hard boulder problem. I remember driving past the boulder on the highway and hearing my friend say, “There is a boulder on top of that hill called the Woodpecker boulder, (Pointing into the dense forest with no sign of rock). It holds a really hard V12 on bad slopers on a steep overhang. Very few people have tried it and its supposed to be the hardest line in Tahoe.” At the time it was interesting to hear the mystery of the problem, but beyond the information it was just another impossible line well beyond my climbing abilities. From that point on I heard very little about the boulder and I forgot about it completely.
Once again I stumbled on the boulder problem while searching through the internet scanning information on the hard granite boulder problems around north lake Tahoe. I was able to track down the approach information and I quickly realized it was a very realistic goal for attempting the problem after work. My first few trips to the boulder were futile attempts at trying to link sections of the boulder problem in upper seventy degree temps. The condition dependent crux section seemed impossible and it felt above and beyond my abilities. But I kept going back to the problem and adapted to the conditions. Each day I focused all my energy into the boulder and it slowly started come together even through the bad conditions. By my third session on the boulder I was falling on the final move, but my mind wasn’t committed to the idea of sending. I needed everything to be perfect before I could move on. The boulder was to perfect for me to send quickly and a part of me wanted to never send it.
On the fifth session I came alone. No noise. No distractions. I was able to warm-up in complete silence and prepare myself mentally. I sat under the problem and could feel the energy of the boulder and the peacefulness of the surrounding landscape. In the moment everything was peaceful. I was able to execute the problem in exact perfection. It felt like a dream as my body moved through the sequences without thought or feeling. I reached the top completely calm without any sign of fatigue or strain on any part of my body. I sat on top of the boulder partially in shock and partially sad, because Boyz in the Hood had taught me a lot about myself and it would be hard to find another problem as rewarding as this one.
In the end it was never about repeating the hardest problem or climbing the suggested grade. It was a way to surpass my physical and mental barriers to reach the perfect mastery of movement. I am sad to leave behind such a beautiful problem. But through the experience, I am excited to search for the next challenge that will achieve a similar form of mastery.