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"All in" - Markus Eder

 
"All in" - Markus Eder
"All in" - Markus Eder
"All in" - Markus Eder
"All in" - Markus Eder
"All in" - Markus Eder
 
May 18, 2014 -  Markus Eder    
 

Heard the rumor that somebody has climbed the arête“ – I always have to think about this sentence of the Rocklands bouldering guidebook when I arrived at my project in Bad Ischl. The combination of this beautiful 25 meters long, overhanging arête and the rumor that Peter Thaler climbed this route 15 years ago, makes this line something special. Since the first ascent the one and only good hold for a rest broke and all the climbers who tried went away with without success. I always glanced at this route, when I went nearby but it seemed impossible. Last year I tried it the first time and recognized the beauty of this line. Since this day I had to come back again and again. A few days of trying went by just brushing, thinking about the moves and improving the beta. I can’t think of any other route which took me so long to get to the point where I could say: Yes, it is possible that I could send this route some time.

 

With a lot of fantasy and the thrust my skills, finally the day arrived: I climbed the first third of the route smoothly, speeded through the middle part, had a really short rest with an uncomfortable toe hook, grabbed every hold of the unsecure upper part perfectly, put in all I had to give, sticked the dyno to the last jug and clipped the anchor with a loud cry of relief.

For me, this ascent feels like writing a little piece of history – nobody climbed this line with this exit after the one important hold broke. “All in” will check in somewhere between 8c+.

Furthermore I managed to climb some of my projects in the woods around Salzburg: One was a nice, nameless crimp boulder (8a/b) that I did so fast that I couldn’t even get more spotters or crash pads. I also repeated “Statikus” 8a+, an old Klem Loskot boulder which got two ascents during 15 years. Why that? Because the four moves are pretty hard! I also managed to get my right foot at the good hold at “High Noon” (8a) in the Maltatal and shortly after that I could stand at the top of this perfect boulder.

Using the rope I could climb two of my self bolted lines: “Christian Perkthold- Gedächtnisweg” (7c) which I devoted to a friend who died 8 years ago in an avalanche and “65 Hirschkühe” (8c+). To hunt down 65 hinds seemed impossible at first but after abseiling, bolting and working on the moves it was showed that it is realistic for me to climb this route some day. The list of excuses got long and many-sided: 3 days to warm, 3 times no beta, 2 times too afraid of falling, 2 times mistakes with the feet, 2 times no chance to clip the quick draws. One day I scented my chance, did the dyno at the start, sprinted die slightly overhanging face up, crimped the small holds, jumped to the sloped rail and topped out the unsecure finish.

Take care,

Max

 

Photo credit: Claudia Ziegler, Bernhard Fiedler
 

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