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Nangijala (8c+) in Kochel – A Long Desired Route! - Muench

 
Nangijala (8c+) in Kochel – A Long Desired Route! - Muench
 
May 03, 2014 -  Muench    
 

The first time that I tried this route was in 2008, and I had worked on it for quite a while back then. But after I had finished school this year, I went to Australia for 9 months and therefore had to start from the beginning after the trip.

 

The first time that I tried this route was in 2008, and I had worked on it for quite a while back then. But after I had finished school this year, I went to Australia for 9 months and therefore had to start from the beginning after the trip.

During the following years though, I didn’t really put a lot of effort into the route, having other projects in climbing as well as in bouldering.

This year, after a long bouldering season, I decided to try if I have that bit more power than the years before to get the crux move done easy enough to link it into the boulder that follows.

The move itself was not that inhumanly hard anymore, but still, in the beginning I could hardly get my feet into the right position for the next move.

After the first sessions, I got more and more confident with the boulder start that leads to a fairly bad rest, followed by this far move onto a bad sloper which I have to bump from again to another bad sloper a bit higher.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t hold that beast at all if it was to warm and the route gets into the sun quite early. Also my skin made some trouble, so that I had to tape three fingers for some time which was even worse for the friction…

Then, on Thursday, the 1st May 2014, my 9th day on the route this year, I was surprised to get the next move done for my first time coming from the bottom and I could even do the boulder after this move. Then I had a nice rest after the hardest part of the route and “only” had to climb an 8a passage to the top. At the final mantle, I got a bit concentrated as I didn’t want to make a mistake, and as it is, just in that moment my foot slipped away. But I was lucky enough to manage to hold the slopers that I grabbed as hard as you do if you don’t want to climb all those 30 meters again, and was surprised to find myself clipping the anchors in the end.

Thank you so much for shouting me up the route to everyone – such a big crowd motivating me down there J

So now that the Nangijala chapter is done, I can finally get on some other nice routes now – let’s see what I will lay my hands onto next…

 

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