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Summit Comp Series - Kyle Francis

Summit Comp Series - Kyle Francis
January 15, 2014 - 

Two weeks ago my hometown gym, Summit-Carrolton, hosted a competition. They’ve been hosting them at their other location during the fall season, but this was the first one I was able to attend. With my training what it was I had no idea what to expect. I’ve been climbing on a woody with made up problems, and nothing really to gauge my progress with. I knew I felt good, I’ve lost a few pounds, but I had no idea how I really felt. This being said I was pretty nervous with the field, Alex fritz flew in for the comp, and then there were about 5 other people competing who have climbed v12 or harder.


The comp started with a three hour red point qualifier round. I hadn’t eaten all day, I was working on three hours of sleep, so my mood was pretty odd. I felt really light, and weirdly energetic. As it got closer to the end I realized I hadn’t even looked at my score card and had no idea how I was doing. So the last hour I ran around making sure I got what I needed to. They take your top five climbs, and I had done the top seven (excluding the hardest two) and I was pretty confident that that would put me in the five person final. Fortunately for me, I made it, in fifth place. I should have kept a better track…. When finals came around I was so excited just to be competing. I wasn’t really expecting to even make finals so I was really psyched. After introductions I was the first one out. The problem had a sweet fly in start, a few campus moves, and a terrifying top. The problem was probably twenty feet off the deck, and for those of you who don’t know me, I am absolutely terrified of heights (picked the right sport right?) which I think ultimately helped me. I ended up getting to the really scary all points off catch for the finish hold and realized if I fell, death was imminent, so instead I grabbed it purely based on fear. I ended up flashing the boulder! Dominic Labarge also flashed, and since he beat me in the qualifier round, he got first and I was second. Fritzy scared us all falling off the last move, I thought he was dead for sure, but fortunately for everyone, he was completely fine. It was really awesome to see non-Dallas people competing, and it was fin for a change of faces. The Summit comp series is awesome, and I want to invite everyone from all over to come compete!

I was really happy with this performance though! This was one of the few comps that I didn’t allow my own baggage to get in the way. If you’re like me, and you often climb with self doubt, I want to encourage you to really figure out why you climb, and what you love about it. Once you can define these things, then climb only when those apply. I know for me, it has been a game changer and I have never had as much fun with the sport.

My dates are also set for Hueco! I will be there December 15th-24th, and I cannot wait! Slashface will be mine. I am even more excited about the group I’m going with, with the likes of Josh Levin, Dalan Faulkner, and Joe Gifford, fun shenanigans are bound to ensue and be blogged about!


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