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News From Last Month - Niccolò Ceria

News From Last Month - Niccolò Ceria
December 06, 2013 -  Niccolò Ceria    

Hi everybody, Five weeks have gone from the end of my trip in Prilep and the training period has started again. After Macedonia my physical shape dropped down and I wasn't able to keep me hang. After the return, I decided to stay off the training since I felt tired and I felt to have given a lot of energies to brush and to climb in Prilep. I opted to climb outdoor in few occasions and to relax me as much as I can before restarting to the use fingerboards and so on.

I went twice to Gaby, the small village in Gressoney valley where some projects seem nice but still too hard for me. The first problem was the "sky jump" boulder. It is situated next to the car and everyone can Google-Earth it to see and to get the way to reach it. Getting to this one is easy as the problems looks: smooth, white, with only few crimps and a good rail to jump. My beta develops in four moves and I got a bit closer on the final jump but without ever grabbing it.

The second day I moved to the river, where I wanted to complete a project much more possible than the first cited. It deals of a link from a river slopy prow I sent last spring into an upper easy traverse on a lip. After some moments to understand the movement on the linker I climbed it. We called it "Bitolski bitolsko" in honor of the yogurt that Rudy loved in Macedonia. Climbing the prow it comes natural climbing direct on the old line, but watching it from a further point it even looked nice to keep on the edge and follow the natural curve the boulder makes.

From the 11th of November, my program began again to try to get a normal shape. The first Three weeks of training passed and I am right now in the resting period. During the first loop I set aside the rock climbing and I dedicated to fingerboard sessions, stretching, abdominals and climbing wall where I set three sessions including one of strength-endurance.

The next loop I will try to add Pan gullich replacing one or two session in the gym. For the next month the climbing outdoor will be still limited and I will probably go only few times in Cresciano. The next trip will be in Red Rocks (Nevada) in January and the aim would be to get a normal shape before this date. We will see. Here below a new clip I edited last day about Nem.


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