As I have written in previous posts, I have been dealing with a torn pulley injury since the beginning of the year. After the 2013 IFSC Youth World Championships, my finger had been worse than ever due to so much training, but as soon as the season was over I had the time to heal up, and finally take care of it. I've taken two terribly frustrating months off from climbing, but not from training. If I could pick a different sport, it would have to be running, and that just happens to be a great sport to cross-train for climbing. I began a system where I would train four times a week, doing conditioning (Workouts like weighted pull ups, lock-offs, push-up, ab workouts and so on) after school for about an hour, and then run. For the running section, I started at five miles until I could run consistent 7-minute miles, and once I could do that began six miles, then seven, and so on. It felt good to give something physical everything I had, especially something as mentally difficult as running, where I feel like I need to stop throughout the entire run, but have to refuse.
Cross-Training and Rehab - Nick Bradley
After two months of all that, I finally came back to the gym. The sad thing with something as serious as a torn pulley is that it requires not only rest time, but rehabilitation of the ligament and tendons around it. Meaning, I "get to" do easy routes for 2-4 weeks and slowly, and I mean slowly, work my way back up to my previous level. It's frustrating going so slow and being so motivated to get stronger and being held back by just a slight tear in a ligament in a single finger, but if that's what it calls for than it's what i have to do. Knowing that I'll be pain free after is the one thing keeping me going.
Being able to climb anything is a great feeling though. It's like re-learning because of how awkward and unfamiliar it seems coming back for even only two months. My skin is all soft and is really sensitive on the juggy holds, my feet cramp up and sting after only half an hour through a session, but I missed it. I missed every little thing about the one thing I love to do, and it's nice to be back. After these next weeks or months or how ever long it takes to be 100% it will be all worth it, and I can't wait.
Also, I received the new Five Ten Rogues a while ago, but am just now beginning to try them out. So far they perform really well on vertical routes and edging, but I'll have a full review later.