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Last Week of Semester Holidays in Frankenjura - Christian Muench

 
Last Week of Semester Holidays in Frankenjura - Christian Muench
Last Week of Semester Holidays in Frankenjura - Christian Muench
Last Week of Semester Holidays in Frankenjura - Christian Muench
 
October 16, 2013 -  Muench    
 

The last week of semester holidays turned out to be not too bad actually. The weather report for the second half of the second week in October was so bad that - although we only had one rest day after the last trip to “Frankenjura” - we made our way back there on Monday, 7 October 2013, again.

The following three days of climbing there where full of sun and good weather then. As we came back to “Bärenschlucht” because Martin wanted to try “Poseidon” (8a+) again, and because I definitely didn’t want to try “Desaster” (8b+) in the sun, I decided to try “Subway” (8b). The steep route stays in the shade almost all day and thus I had quite good conditions there. After having some trouble with the start dyno in the beginning, I found out that the first move can actually be done static if you pull a mono as an undercling, and after two sessions of bouldering I could climb the route.

After that I had a glance into “Small Talk” (8b+), the route just to the left. But for today, this one was a bit hard and I ended my day onsighting “Roter Baron” (7b+). This evening, Kathi invited us to stay our night at her mother’s place near “Bamberg”. A warm shower and a comfortable bed to sleep made us feel recovered the next day and I wanted to try “Small Talk” with new power.

So, after one session of bouldering, I could do all the moves pretty well and in my first try I got up to the last hold. But I fell there, because my body had too much momentum and my forearms not enough power left…

In my next try, I couldn’t do one far move in the middle of the route and also I was just a bit too excited. After that, Kathi could appease me and with the new attitude that climbing is fun and holiday and with a lot of motivation by her and Martin, I could climb the route in my third try from the bottom. Afterwards, I was keen to do the ultimate classic “Rauchende Bolts” (7b+/c) with its nicely far distance from the last bolt to the ancor and could onsight it without taking the whipper. But the cool down route afterwards made me realize that I was pretty much done for the day – how can one get so pumped?

As Bamberg is not far from “Kleinziegenfelder Tal”, we spend our last day of the trip at the crags around “Holzgauer Wand”. There I fighted my way up “Nikita” (8a+) – such a perfect endurance line!!! A flash of “Mephisto“ (7c) and “Mambo Cavallero” (7b+), as well as an onsight of “Fotokante” (7b+) made the trip complete and after the nice cool down “Gundis Wunsch” (6c+, onsight) - quite tired but so happy and in love with climbing – Martin and me drove back to Munich.

The weekend from October 12 to October 13, 2013, we had our last climbing trip to Frankenjura for these semester holidays. And Saturday it was also my birthday. This time I had a closer look into “Klondike Cat” (8c). Even though I could not climb it this time, after two days of trying all sections of the route, in the end I found a solution that suites me and I want to try it again with new power and skin on my fingers. Besides, on Saturday I could onsight “Skywalk” (8a+) and flash “Nachtwächter” (7b+) and on Sunday I onsighted “Sidewalk” (7b+). Martin could finally climb “Poseidon” (8a+). Congratulations and respect there!

But the best thing this weekend was to be outside with my friends. I even got a birthday cake with candles on it and a cup of tea just when I got down from a bouldering session in “Klondike Cat” and we had so much fun all the time.

Thanks for one of the best birthdays in my life to Daniel, Martin, Kathi and Matthias!!!

 

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