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Summer is Over - Martina Cufar

Summer is Over - Martina Cufar
Summer is Over - Martina Cufar
Summer is Over - Martina Cufar
Summer is Over - Martina Cufar
Summer is Over - Martina Cufar
Summer is Over - Martina Cufar
Summer is Over - Martina Cufar
October 07, 2013 - 

The last route I did up there was Or or, 7a+,250m on Pointe Lachenal (3600m)with a Romunian friend Irina. We had perfect, almost “t-shirt” conditions and I found a key pitch hard and long (I might not have seen one anchor, everything is possible), I put in all the gear and quickdraws I had!

Two days later I took my sister Irena to the Arete de Cosmiques (200m max IV). This was my first guiding experience and Irena’s first climbing on the altitude. Challenges for both of us. We did it well, and were quite fast, nobody overtook us:-) The day was really a perfect one since I had occasion to fly down with a paraglide (tandem of course). What a view on all the “aiguilles” of Chamonix!

Later on the weather got moody, so we climbed down in the valley or even indoor! In Pont du Cruz I flashed Voie de Guy 8a. We went quite often to a new spot on the SE of the Annecy lake, Taillfer. Why? Because there are some colonettes which are very very rare in the Haute Savoie! I made a lot of effort to do Supplement de mensonge 8a+. 14 tries! I kept falling just under the top, and finally I realized that I can crimp one sloper. That was the solution:-)

Talking about the colonettes; we had them almost too much last week in Verdon. The day when Nico finished his summer working season we went in Verdon for three days. We didn’t have more time since Nico was leaving to Yosemite after, and me to Slovenia. So we climbed “a muerte”:-)

First day we went to Electoraux chocs (180m 8a+). We knew there was some chalk on the route while there was a FFcam groupe (Yann Ghesquiers ans co) that had climbed there a week before. It helps a lot! The first pitch is an 60m long 8a, 20 quickdraws needed! Impossible to onsight, we didn’t have enough of gear. At the end I had problems to pull the rope; I didn’t take care of the rope drag very well. But Nico did it as second! After a hard 7b there’s a five stars 7c, a technical dihedral with some pockets. I was really happy to onsight it, since it’s known as being hard if you are small; I avoided a chipped one finger pocket and did it. The last pitch (8a+) is really really hard. Also with one finger pockets which are my nightmare. So I did some aid climbing and Nico’s skin was too painful to give it another try, but he liked it. Anyway we had a nice “warming up” day in Verdon.

The next two days we climbed in the nice wall of the Duc. On the six stars:-) routes Une jolie fleur dans la peau de vache 8b, 250m. First day we wanted to take a look at the crux 8b pitch and the first 8a. The colonettes are quite sharp there, so with the hot weather this is “the death” for the skin. It’s hard to climb three days in a row without too much suffering! Everyone of us did two tries on the very steep 8b. It’s really an amazing pitch with the tufas, a roof, two traverses with heal hooks, the final pumpy colonette, a pocket, a sika reinforced crimper, underclings. We both fell off the final pumpy colonette, but went on to see the upper part of the route. The 7b is simply nice, a good single colonette. The 8a also deserve five stars with it single but not so good colonette. I flashed this one.

The last day our plan was to red point all the pitches. But the waking up was hard. The skin was very painful!  And the forearms a bit pumped too. Nico felt off the 8b really high up, disappointed. I did all I could, but fell off on the end of the colonette. I would need a rest day to be able to do such a steep pitch. Finally Nico did the pitch as second, which I think it’s even harder since you are so alone down there in the steep wall! We did all the following pitches leading (7b, 8a and 8a).The last one is also a great one, a little boulder at the beginning and more (sharp) colonettes, 50m long!

We didn’t do the last 6b pitch, since we had a 6h drive back to Chamonix and Tommy to do on the same day!

Now I am in Slovenia for three weeks. I came just on time to compete on the traditional memorial competition in Osp. We climb on top rope in the multipitch routes; who’s faster! It’s great to climb like this, light without a rope drag! I even broke the record and did the 70m long 7b in 7min 35s. And Tommy was happy too, he likes shiny cups!


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