Weather can be so mean – but there is always a dry place. During the first weeks in September, weather did not really want us to climb in our home areas. But fortunately, even if it is raining really badly, there are still a couple of crags that stay dry.
Thus, on Wednesday, September 11, Bou and I had a nice day at “Sparchen”, where I checked out “Absinth” (8c). The thing in “Sparchen” is that footholds are pretty bad and slippery there. So during my first two times bouldering in the route, I really felt like an ice dancer. I just wanted to take out the draws after my first try from the bottom and was surprised to find myself falling at the last move. After that I had two more tries up to that point, but then, in my 6th session in the route, my fingers where just too sore and I was pretty much done for that day…
Since the weather forecast for the weekend after that Wednesday was still not better for most regions around Munich, Martin and I decided to set our alarm clocks for Friday morning and start to Arco at 6 o’clock. We had a lot of fun during our three days there.
Starting at “Nomesino”, I was fighting my onsight up the beautiful route “Ex-Express” (8a). It was just so hot in the sun – you cannot satisfy a climber… Hiding from the sun, but enjoying it without rain, we spend the rest of our short trip at “La Gola”.
Sinter climbing is so cool! In a small cave, I did a couple of really nice routes from 7a+ to 8a that I recommend to everyone, including “Destino fatale“ (8a, snd try) and “Resting“ (7c+, flash). A little bit of Spanish climbing not so far away from home – who would have thought that…
The last day in “La Gola”, we both where quite tired already and after another two 7c onsights and a couple of easier routes, all very nice but not as steep as in the cave, we decided to drive back to Munich. During the next week, I decided to use Tuesday to train at home and come back to “Sparchen” on Thursday again to try “Absinth” (8c).
So, Daniel, Rene and me had a great time climbing on one of the only crags that had stayed dry during this pouring rain. After my first two tries, one of which again took me up to the last move of the route, I was happy to get to the top on my third try that day. After that I was keen on checking out the lines that start in the second pitch and could onsight the pretty nice route “Drunk as a Skunk” (7c+).
Such a difference to the first pitch since this part of the crag is quite steep and not so polished. After another 7c in the first pitch and a repeat of the classic “Tequila” (8a, everyone should do it J ) we finally had to leave. For the weekend then, since a lot of crags where still wet, we cancelled our plan to climb in “Frankenjura” and decided to split our weekend.
On Saturday we made our way to “Schleierwasserfall”. I had only rarely been there before, but even if we only could climb in the yellow part of the crag, due to humidity, it was still a lot of fun and a great day once I got used to the style of climbing. After warming up with “Ziag o” (7c) – and there I got really warm - I got quite a bit frustrated, having trouble with most of the moves in “Cool your foot man” (8b).
But somehow, after two sessions of bouldering in the route, I felt a lot better and was astonished to find myself clipping the anchor on my third try. After that, I had pretty much the same thing with the route “Colonist” (8b). The first session of bouldering was quite hard and every move felt so difficult, but surprisingly I also could climb this one on my first try from the bottom.
But finally, I had to admit myself that I was quite sore already when I tried “Nirwana” (8a) and had a lot of trouble with the bouldery crux. Still a good reason to come back though. A really nice route called “Ueberraschung” (7b) to finish the day and back home to Munich – what a beautiful day in the sun!
On Sunday then, we decided to go to “Rockywand” at “Kochel”, where I still had that route “Zu schlapp fuer dieses Geld” (8c) from before our trip to Ceüse. When we arrived, half of the wall was still wet and so I tried “Ziag oder fliag Direktausstieg” (8a+) first, but I couldn’t find any solution to one very long move from an undercling to a small pocket, as the footholds where much too low for me.
Therefore, I decided to just try the moves that where doable in my desired route and was lucky enough to at least be able to do it in two pieces with one wet hold in between. After three tries, knowing that I couldn’t climb the route that day anyway due to wetness, we decided to end our climbing weekend and let the crag dry in the sun for a couple of more days.
Some rest would be quite advisable…
During the following week I have been at “Kochel” two more days. But on the first day it was just too warm for me to climb the crux of “Zu schlapp fuer dieses Geld” easy enough to get up the whole route. And during the second day, pouring rain made the air so humid that I only had one good try.
After four tries each day, my forearms made me feel like having a massage rather than another try and skin on my fingers only confirmed that. In the end, Kathi could tell me the moves of “Münchner Freiheit” (7c) so that I could get a flash there, even though the nice slab at the top section felt quite nasty and difficult for me.
Anyway, this route is a real classic for anyone who is longing for some crimps in between all those pockets that you get in most of the routes at “Rockywand”.
The last weekend in September, I spent in “Frankenjura” together with Daniel and Diana. And guess where we went climbing? Yes exactly, it was “Zwergenschloss” again.
A short warm up and then let’s try “Powerplay” (8c). My arms didn’t share my motivation though and my body felt quite exhausted after the recent couple of weeks. Anyway, I tried hard on Saturday, having five tries and got quite high actually. But getting high up is just not getting to the anchor.
Afterwards, we spend our evening at a car park, having a beautiful view onto “Heldwand” and eating delicious pizza from “Waischenfeld”. Sunday didn’t bring me much further in “Powerplay” and after another two tries, I spend the rest of my time discovering some routes in lower grades at “Zwergenschloss”.
With “Starlight Express“ (7c, flash) and “Born to be alive” (7c, onsight), a highlight in roof climbing and an insanely good prow, I definitely didn’t waste my time. Besides, “Fox on the run“ (7a+, Onsight) – a dusty and quite badly bolted route - spend a bit of alpine feeling.
To complete the day, I did some easier classics. All in all, you could clearly feel that autumn was coming quick now. Colorful leaves falling from the trees and golden sunlight shining through a light forest, together with great people, made the weekend a wonderful experience for me.
Pretty tired from all my projects outside, I used the following Tuesday to just have a good bouldering session in the gym. Already from the next Thursday to Sunday though, we had planned another trip to “Frankenjura”.
So well, once again to “Frankenjura” then. On Thursday we met at “Bärenschlucht” together with a group of about nine people, to enjoy the little amount of sun that we would get this weekend.
After warming up, I decided to try “Minotaurus“ (8b). Pretty small holds and mostly pockets as well as almost too much sun in the wall during the day made that one quite hard for me. Also the tape on my bleeding middle finger didn’t make it easier.
Anyway, when I decided to climb without tape in my sixth try, I luckily could climb the route in the end. After that “the tank was empty” though, and my fingers hurt quite a lot from all those sharp pockets. So, my flash try in “Metallica“ (7c+) had its end at the last bolt.
Nevertheless, what a good day!!! A big portion of “Kasspatz’n” in “Morschreuth” afterwards made it a perfect evening. When we woke up on Friday, it was pretty could with only three degrees and we preferred to heat up a bit at “Café Greif” in “Gößweinstein” rather than driving to the crag directly.
Thereafter, we started our climbing day at “Freudenhaus”, where we had hoped to have some sun. But we only got a few shafts of sunlight that day. All the same, as we were here for climbing, we just kept doing that and in the end I could get ascents of “Auf Teufel komm raus!“ (8a, 3rd try) and “Schmuddelkröte” (8a, flash).
Afterwards, we drove on to “Große Dooser Welle“. But there I only did “Zone 2“ (7b+, flash) and “Die Rückkehr der Hilti-Ritter“ (7a+, onsight) to end the climbing day. The evening we then spend in comfortably warmth at the restaurant in “Morschreuth”.
On Saturday, I really felt the first two climbing days with all the climbing on small two finger pockets. It was “Bärenschlucht” today, but this time without sun. Afterwards, I had a quick look into “Klondike Cat” (8c), but I was too tired to have a lot of fun here.
Also my onsight try in “Im Auge des Zyklopen“ (7c+) took its end at the last bolt, after I had almost fallen together with a loose hold at the start already. Maybe also the top of the route should be cleaned – but maybe one should just climb other routes as well…
The end of this trip for me made “Herz aus Gold“ (7c, snd go). After that, Martin had another really good try in “Poseidon”, but due to the weather report we decided to drive back to Munich on Saturday already and rather come back a couple of days later.
So far, so good. Another week of semester holidays and another trip to “Frankenjura “ are the plan for now. And let’s see what the rest of autumn will bring.
So far I had a lot of fun!!!