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Projecting Begins - Urs Moosmuller

 
Projecting Begins - Urs Moosmuller
Projecting Begins - Urs Moosmuller
Projecting Begins - Urs Moosmuller
Projecting Begins - Urs Moosmuller
Projecting Begins - Urs Moosmuller
Projecting Begins - Urs Moosmuller
 
September 14, 2013 - 
 

Finally after several days of work my project was completely bolted and ready for attempts. For me this is one of the hardest routes I have attempted and right off the ground you hit a hard V8 boulder problem on small crimps to a perfect no hand knee bar rest at the base of the 15m horizontal ceiling. An awkward 12+ section hugging a hanging block leads to an 8 move V9 boulder problem to a good double knee bar rest. Half way out the roof you get to relax for a minute before the six move long V11 crux. At the end of the crux you get a very hard clip straight into a V7 boulder problem to a slab top out on micro crimps.

 

Starting the project is the most challenging part since you are unsure whether it is possible or just another undone project that sits for years with out any repeats. For me progress went very slow and on day five of trying the route I finally freed every move. The sequences are very intricate and part of the problem was attempting to find a way through the gaps in features. By day seven I had it in three hangs and was starting to get close to sending! The next day I came back to the cliff and was able to send the V11 boulder problem after hanging before the crux. Finally everything was coming together and my psyche was growing more and more. 

For the next five days a heavy rain storm moved in and I was stuck in the city doing nothing, waiting for my opportunity to get back on the route. Finally the storm cleared up and we hiked out the next day to put more burns in. We reached the cliff to find the whole roof seeping water completely and everything wet......I tried to stay optimistic and went up to see if I could dry the holds off enough to attempt the moves. After an hour of trying to dry things, it was hopeless. A constant stream of water was pouring over the lower half of the route and the upper crux stayed dry for about two minutes before becoming completely soaked again. The rain season has hit Mexico City and I wouldn’t be able to try it again until late August or September when things start drying off again. Disappointed it was time to head north to the desert to find refuge from the rain in the dry hot climate. 

Photo credit: Matthias Lang
 

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