Climbing in Frankenjura, Kochel, Ceüse and Oetztal, falling on the last move in a couple of routes and getting up other ones. About two weeks ago, I spend four days in Frankenjura with Hubi and Maxime, three of which I tried “Powerplay” (8c+) besides a couple of easier routes. From the first day on I had a really good progress on the route. So I missed the jug that leads to the top section - which I can climb pretty well - just by two centimeters. But on the third day, my biceps started to hurt and I postponed further tries to autumn this year.
On our forth day, we went to a small crag called “Galawand”, where I could at least climb “Haerte 10” (8b) on my second go. During the week after this trip, I spend two days back home at Kochel, trying “Zu schlapp fuer dieses Geld” (8c) again. But also in this route I fell on the last move twice and on the second day the whole crux was totally wet. So well, if the weather is bad everywhere else, just go and see something else I thought and drove to Ceüse with Daniel and René.
As we only planned to stay there until the weather in Oetztal would get better, we didn’t spend much time on getting used to the crag and I tried “Dures Limites” (8c) straight away. In the beginning, I could hardly do all the moves, having some trouble with the totally different type of endurance that you need here. But already on my second day in the route, the lower crux worked pretty well and on my third and fourth day I even got to the last hard move, again missing the jug that leads to easier climbing only by the well known two centimeters.
After that, I felt a bit burned out and on our fifths climbing day we went to the sector “Berlin” to do some easier onsights. Thus, I planned to get on a 7c+, but we misinterpreted the guidebook and so I got into “Rat man” (8a+), falling up high – a bit too hard for me on an easy day. After that, we spend our time doing (real) 7c’s and some easier routes. Being a bit frustrated because sun made it almost impossible to start climbing before four o’clock in the afternoon after the first three climbing days had been nicely cloudy, we finally decided to finish our trip in Oetztal as the weather forecast said no rain and good conditions for there.
Already on the first day there, we felt new motivation after the change from hot limestone climbing to granite climbing in perfect conditions. So, after warming up I enjoyed a day free from any big projects, onsighting “Double Big Mac” (8a+) and “Oetztal Express” (7c), flashing “Gollum” (8a), “Zwergentod” (7b) and some easier routes and climbing “Minas Morgul” (8a+) on my second try. The next day however, I wanted to see what hard climbing in Oetztal means and got on “Waldlaeufer” (8c).
Luckily, Daniel found a hold that I had overseen before and so I was able to get up the route on my second try after bouldering out the moves twice, slipping away from the biggest jug that you can imagine on my first try… What a nice day after all those unfortunate in my other projects over the last couple of weeks. To end up the day, I enjoyed some easier but super beautiful lines, including a flash of “La Era” (7c+) and the must do crack “Le Miracle” (7b).
After a rest day, we had another two climbing days. But they only got me a couple of more onsights and second try ascents of routes up to 7c, even though I had a look into “Gondor” (8c) and “Oman calling” (8b), the second of which I just didn’t understand and got a bit scared on because of a big boulder that you might hit when falling. Daniel however could climb “Minas Morgul” (8a+), even if conditions got pretty bad after a bit of rain.
Good job there!
I really want to get back to Oetztal someday to try “Gondor” again – I liked the moves a lot.
But for this trip, at least I was quite sore and looking forward to some rest before getting on new and old projects back home.