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Castle Rock: The Day with a Slow Start but a Good Finish - Matt Grossman

Castle Rock: The Day with a Slow Start but a Good Finish - Matt Grossman
Castle Rock: The Day with a Slow Start but a Good Finish - Matt Grossman
Castle Rock: The Day with a Slow Start but a Good Finish - Matt Grossman
Castle Rock: The Day with a Slow Start but a Good Finish - Matt Grossman
August 03, 2013 - 

The Castle Rock trip had a long windy drive but it had a short approach to the first boulder and had great climbing farther back. I cant wait to go back and try some more cool routes.


After the long and windy ride to castle rock we did the approach that luckily only took 1min or so to the parking lot boulder. There was a V0 to warm up on so I did it 2-3 times and then started working this V5. The beginning moves were V2 or V3 so I partially warmed up on that too. We then moved over to this V4 that was a move to 2 slopers and then to a jug. It had a heel hook to the right, which made the move a lot easier. It was still hard though.

After a while of working that we went to Yabo roof a V5 in a cave. It had some easier moves to the end of the roof and then a hard mantle top out. I spent some time working that and then went back the V4 and worked that for a while making little progress. Once my friend, Seth Rogers, got Yabo roof I was psyched to get it. I worked it for another 10min or so I got it with Nick Bradley’s beta.

We then moved onto a V2 called The Spoon and a crimpy V4 with a cool finish. My friends, Hanna, Seth, Ethan, Cameron, Natalia, Nick and I got them after eating lunch and then we moved on. There were 3 cool routes on the boulder we went to. Two of which were Nick Bradley’s 2 favorite routes in Castle Rock: The Slope V4 and The Slap V5. One was up a corner on a slabby wall. The other had a semi-big move to a juggy hueco, then a hand foot match after standing up, finally just a few balancy steps to the top of the boulder.

Once everyone had done the problems we went to the backside of the boulder to a V5 called Hueco wall. Once Nick showed us where the route went and gave us some beta we started to work it. Ethan Rogers amazingly got the route even though every move was reachy and he had to dyno to the finish. We moved on to Bates Problem V6. It was a one-move wonder, pretty fun but not like the V5s and V4 we had climbed previously. After that we packed up and took the approach out.

Nick suggested this V6 traverse in the climbing area Lost Keys right across the street. It had a short approach and a slightly downhill landing. It was a good route though, with a juggy start to a slightly hard move to a rail. After some moves to pockets there was a big move to a hueco, then a big jump to a huge jug. Once you finish your small rest there is a mediocre top out. I had worked it for about an hour. During my rests nick would give me beta or do laps on it. In all he ended up doing 10 laps. Finally after a whole day of climbing I got it! I was pumped after the first hard move and rested a lot on the jug just before the top out. A good day of summer climbing.


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