I am now back in Mexico City with the goal of finding and developing new routes. The potential here is overwhelming and there are very few established 5.14’s. Upon arriving in the city, I immediately started to search for hard lines. The first area I decided to check out is a park just outside of the city called Los Dinamos.
Los Dinamos is a huge heavily forested canyon just to the southwest of the city. The rock here is volcanic and has four main sectors with developed climbing on them. The canyon walls reach up to 100 meters in some places with most of the development in the 5.9 to 5.12 range with a few routes in the 5.13 grade. With this information I had high hopes of finding something really hard.
On my first day back to Mexico City my friend Alma and I went and checked out the fourth Dinamo. The climbing here is 90 percent trad with a few sport lines on the second pitch of the formation. It turned out to be really high quality volcanic pillars and after doing several routes I was ready to start looking for my project. My friend’s friend said there was potential for routes on a cliff near the road that no one had explored yet. Excited to start bolting we went to check it out. We found a very well defined trail that lead us near the base, but the dense brush prevented us from accessing it. We grabbed our machetes and started bush whacking to the base. After three hours of hacking away through the brush we made it to the cliff line to discover vegetated loose rock. Disappointed we headed back to the car in defeat. Finding high quality lines this close to the city was going to be an adventure.
After talking to some other climbers we found out that the Cuarto y Medio Dinamo held very hard routes and had some potential in the 13+ range. The next day we went to check it out with a small back pack and machetes. We arrived at the base of the established routes to find very clean solid rock. We started heading left across the base of the cliff line and after passing all the established routes we started bush whacking through an extremely faint trail. Around every corner there seemed to be more rock and after 30 minutes we had seen several lines that were in the 5.11 to 5.13 range, but nothing hard. We kept going and finally we stumbled upon the jackpot. A huge roof formation with a 15 meter roof through blocks and flakes. With only one weakness through the entire roof, I had found the line I was looking for.