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Failed Attempt and Great Fall - Ferran Guerrero Hervas

 
Failed Attempt and Great Fall - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
 
July 03, 2013 - 
 

Tai Chi "Originally, Tai Chi is an internal martial art (Chinese: ? ? ?, pinyin: nèijiaquán) for combat, whether armed or unarmed. In more recent times it increasingly seen as a practice physical and spiritual, which on one hand would be very beneficial to health, while the other is a meditation technique (moving meditation) "

 
 

He had heard about this route, opened in 85 'by Santi Garcia Llop and Antonio Picazo, right through the middle of all the fronton of the llibre Plec upper, a daring and artificial line very industrious, has very few ascents in that style and when I saw the review and chronicle published two years ago (if I remember correctly) on the blog (then) traditional climbing, I metio his image and since then I have not been out of my thoughts, at the time they signed the second free ascent and Roger Cararah the third ascent, committed, exposed and a long list of adjectives that could name this majestic line. Finding a partner was difficult, when it seemed that if a bump stopping us, will be the venue?, Until one day everything takes shape and comes to fight and face your fears and nightmares from the moment you put a date on the calendar and then browse one of the best rock of Montserrat seas becomes a reality.

The you that you have seen his figure from St. Jerome of you know of which I speak, a kind of sword of Damocles that stretches into the sky and its grip lies hidden within Montserrat, stretching seems to look more and more and more up and not stop growing, the look, everywhere you look is the majestic spire of the llibre Plecs, a stylized form soft harmonica in which large cordate have left their mark of identity are shaped climbing.

Free climb the route for me was a dream, and dated in the calendar, everything is not sleeping, I live very hard, but it's part of the job I learned to make this type of track, you need not sleep weeks before, need to dream that you fall and pluck everything in your path and only then learn as the weeks go to live with the feeling that however much you want, the situation is not controlled at 100%, that nightmares are necessary to assess risk, this state in the background I like, gives meaning to climbing, makes you feel alive and see that for many years you spend climbing is that enthusiasm and excitement for the unknown, synonymous with adventure.

Topo of the route Tai Chi A4 (6c) topoferran guerrero and information for

Escalada Tradicional

The days have passed, more and more nerves, we have to change the day from Saturday to Sunday, my partner Quo, has a commitment on Saturday and it was agreed at the last moment, jajaj, not only to put more stress the long wait, so on Sunday we have to face our dreams, those who voluntarily have decided to pursue and at the same time have become nightmares the last few weeks, as we watched passing yards and yards of walls, which were just the way to reach this dream. Although happiness is found along the way and not the end of it, that belong to part of the way and for a moment, just one moment of happiness that we get will be the culmination of a dream come true.


Material necessary, a set of friends Camalots to 1 (red) and C3's and a set of microfriends type Metollius / Allien, bolls and slings for merlets, some sheet recoverable few tapes, and a couple of hooks in our case if to need to strengthen insurance meetings or triangulated

El Plec del llibre

First pitch 30 6b- This is the first along the Rosaura, now quite left, this almost everything with chisels, the first being with some wire and it is good to take some recoverable wide plate or throttle cables, is a sail along, a little loser at some point, the rock is generally not very good quality as expected, during the first and the rest of long always something is broken. The Oriol (Quo) as we had agreed to go up all the way and I can leap jumars entire First, the tonic on the road will be, meeting with more of a burr in a precarious state and almost impossible to reinforce.

Performing the first printing of Rosaura gives way to the Tai Chi Photo: VictorTardio

Performing the first printing of Rosaura gives way to the Tai Chi Photo: VictorTardio

Performing the first printing of Rosaura gives way to the Tai Chi Photo: VictorTardio

Performing the first printing of Rosaura gives way to the Tai Chi Photo: VictorTardio

Performing the first printing of Rosaura gives way to the Tai Chi Photo: VictorTardio

Performing the first printing of Rosaura gives way to the Tai Chi Photo: VictorTardio

Performing the first printing of Rosaura gives way to the Tai Chi Photo: VictorTardio

-Second pitch 30 m 6a.This is the first along the Tai Chi, and is trying to find the most logical route paret, for me this was very stressful long, there were moments of great navigated and few insurance, or climbing excessively in a straight line or not find the right path, we must be very careful in this long.

Performing the second run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Performing the second run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Performing the second run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Performing the second run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Performing the second run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Performing the second run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Performing the second run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

-Third pitch 15 m 6b. Not long complicated left well protected, just before leaving the Bauma found a V falcate and about two feet to the left a chisel, continue straight and let us put a friend, (black alien), just to get to a small bauma, here's a tricam do not go out, it's a good piece, at this point we made a right flank until the next bauma, where we find a gathering of two chisels on the floor.

Realizing the third run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Realizing the third run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Realizing the third run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Realizing the third run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Realizing the third run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Realizing the third run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

-Four pitch 25m 6b. It is one of the long exposure, the meeting is that is in good condition and we were unable to strengthen it, here it is easy to have a fall factor 2, change the rotten sling one again. You have to go to the right of the hole and climb straight only, you may put a friend on a tridedo bidedo-hand side, if you do not play a good cookie, this past can still put some smaller friend, then found a chisel , and just before the meeting with a large V that put the Paca when repeated artificial arrival at the last meeting this nail.

Performing the fourth run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Performing the fourth run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Performing the fourth run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Performing the fourth run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Performing the fourth run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Performing the fourth run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío



Performing the fourth run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Performing the fourth run of the Tai Chi Photo: Victor Tardío

Up to this point we were doing, no problems, not how fast we were climbing I usually do, since generally long with the rock were a little loose, but we were doing, slowly but surely, and with a good time, we had two long, and we started the penultimate length of A4 (6c)

-Fifth pitch 35 m A4 (6c). From the same session (three chisels) and a chisel isolated (to avoid factor 2) I put a friend of 0.75, looks good, I see the first lead wires, leads 7-8 story, some just 1 m of distance or less, I'm putting hooks alternating with ribbons loose, I would not stay without carabiners, even a carabiner as safe, go sailing, it is true that the amount of leads makes this long climbing is mentally rested, in the same hole of one of the leads on top makes a fisurilla inclined and allows me to reinforce the lead with a tiny friend, keep climbing until I see a chisel and at all the way I'm going Oriol explaining and advising, he is part of this team, and peace of mind goes through my at times, "Uri see a chisel at 1m or feet, well," I make a step and just when I'm going to make another move, unexpectedly under my left foot something breaks and I am thrown into the void, I can only do that scream "Uri, Uri, Uri, Uri".

In the five pitch Photo: Victor Tardío

I look released and swallowed by gravity, I realize not many things are jumping all insurance, striking side to side against the wall, and turned not as I turn to straighten, pulling me about insurance here other from there, powder from the wall as insurance jumping, I see that something falls to the ground around me, "one bamba? ask me" cry and I fall, I can not control the fall, just wait for it to stop, to suddenly I stop and see me hanging and turning on the wall, scream of rage, I think I will have to do that part of the long with all that entails, I look up, and there is too much material around and falling toward me in rope, 8 in all insurance uprooted, some carabiners leads (3), other loose hooks, sinkers have been torn cable but they are there, a friend who has not endured (off the lead).

I try to catch the rope and see blood all over the place, I move fast, I do not think I have anything broken, but no blood, I bleed hand, the arm also a very strong pain in the pelvic area, joderrrrr, I see to continue going to be impossible, Uri yells fast I go to a spit to the right of the road Jordi Vidal, I say no, I get off the meeting (second) that I have a couple of meters underfoot, this happens very fast, once I anchor myself in the meeting, by the way Uri discuss this fucking thing only comes to my head, my wife and my daughter Laia Arlet, and repeated as a mantra song I sing every day of the MIC "fa the monkey i s'enfila, Mec Mic Mac", is repeated again and again skipping verses, I feel weird.

In the five pitch Photo: Victor Tardío

Uri friend tells me that I have placed upon leaving the meeting has endured throughout the flight, a total of 35-37 m, although Victor who saw it all live says 40 m, but the friend has been destroyed, something has broken , docks, etc., do not know, Uri can not take, after we realized that the same has been our salvation, the chisel which was supposed to keep the factor 2 I started, Uri has been pulled over the meeting, the meeting has been touched with such flight after organizing, we decided that we left, and my partner I owe my life to where I am rappel (second meeting) from here we take another rappel to Ubach-channel Corner and from a tree to the ground.

Once on the ground, it gives me a drop, my partner hugs me, I cry, if not anger, or start to think that we could have killed him, if not both, myself, a strange feeling, not being reckless or rash or anything, if it had not been able to control this factor that made ??me fall and cause such zip, meeting four at two carabiners destroyed by chopping against the wall, boudrier with a good crush in the back, blows that I can not explain how I made them.

Scheme of the fall, meters, etc.

Victor levied entire climb and from photos, is the only other recording that has been seen throughout the fall, the size of it and meters, the best anyone can give information of what had happened. We are in the Channel Migdia with Victor and one hour is not yet back to the car, I have been able to take an anti-inflammatory, to prevent more pain than I have, the decline makes me short, now I can laugh and remember, seen perspective dread to think what could have happened.

In the Bar agree with my friend Anna Jaume Clotet "Paca" and explain what happened, I think anyone realizes what happened, soon appears that by many years Francisquillo that did not match the. Everything has been in a story and a memory.

Thanks to Uri for saving my life, Victor Kalvin around the track that made us all day, Nuria, Susi, Paca, Laia, Francisquillo, Raul Poyatos, all for the encouragement or because at some point you have iron out the issue even knowing how it could have ended.

thanks

Three cooperheads plucked a friend, and the rest loose tape and hooks were pulled from the leads, and there have been the remains of broken leads to repeat will need leads or put back up as possible, the locking carabiner as seen in the picture of the fall and the stretch will not close completely. The boudrier has been beaten on sites that I can not imagine how they have been, I do not remember.

Once home, heading to the hospital, x-rays of hand and pelvic area, I have not broken anything, in the left hand and bruised to fedula strips to avoid moving a finger, I have a kind of fiber breakage around the tendon, 15 days of rest and re-scale, it was nothing to what might have been in the hospital a big letdown, to the point of asking pinchasen me an anti-inflammatory for the pain throughout the body.

 

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