Three months ago I left Mexico City to Colorado...
This year –as the last 6 of my life– I intended to reach Colorado in the month of March, but it was snowing a lot and got very cold. Every day Chad G., David G. and I went climbing at Elkaland or RMNP. It seems to me that it must be like the battle of going to the office or school; it is hard to get motivated being so cold and having strong winds outside... but, as always, we try to go climbing, and if it is snowing very much we go to the Climbing GYM, where I train for three or four hours. When it snows a lot in the mountains of Colorado it is hard to drive or leave the house across the snow.
Within a few weeks of climbing in Colorado in late March, one day Chad, David and Bred L. went skying. I went to climb at the GYM because I am Mexican and I am not so good at skying, and they try crazy stuff! One day I saw David G. at home with a no-good-face sitting on the couch in the house. I ask what happened and he told me he hurt his knee. Oh man, no good. Since I climb with David there is always an adventure: he is one of the few climbers in the USA that really looks always for new boulders and gives them life with magnesia. Besides that, well it is always very sad to see a climber friend injured, imagine the frustration as it is for us not to climb in one month.
Then began the second month of being here in Colorado. This month it is supposed to be still cold but not snowing much as it was in April. But it is clear that the climate does not respect this routine and this year it snowed a lot much to the point that there were weeks in which you could not go climbing to the rock, so I continued going to the climbing gym more than usual to train –the past few months in Mexico I had climbed rock and needed more training in plastic anyway¬¬–. Also, because I had the plan to compete in Vail, World Cup, for which I needed to climb more.
At this time David G went on his trip to Europe and Chad and I just keep going climbing, but now we could go to Wolvo Land, Mt. Evans area A, B...
With all this gym training I began to need more hours of climbing than the usual, and more days a month. I started to climb for 10 days straight and rest one, either climb out on the rocks or workout at a gym. For the past 60 days I climbed 55 days and rested only 5. This is for making my climbing a life habit –I red that to make something a habit you need to do the activity for 70 days–. This could make me find some more new boulders in Elkaland and in Wild Basin, in addition to clean and try more new projects in different areas of Colorado.
In late May, the weather began to be less cold; daily, the snow stopped and the sun came out sooner. Then there was a very good weather window here in Colorado. The temperature could change from 50F to 80F, and mosquitoes and ticks began to appear in the mountains.
With this weather I had to change my routine and itinerary as a climber because climbing a V14 or V13 with 70 or 80 degrees F is very hard. That's why I started waking up really late, so I go out to climb in the afternoon and evening (the friction of the rock is better then). Furthermore, Chad went on a trip to South Africa for a month so then I was alone in the castle, which makes it a little harder to climb and stay motivated... It also had advantages, because you can climb at your own pace, do whatever you want and you can focus more. Well, climbing with Chad and Dave is fun...
Now I still have two months more in Colorado before heading off to some other country. I have left only 10 days to achieve climbing 70 days and make it a habit... only rested. But why to stop if I can try 100 days climbing? I am an Aztec warrior: I will see what happens. It fascinates me to experience climbing, try things and see if they get me better. I think I would miss climbing if I stopped.
I have the plan to make White Noise (v15), at Wild Basin. A year ago after David found and started to clean up and do the movements, Daniel W. made the first ascent and gave life to the game. Then it was repeated by Matie H and David G.
In this season it is hard to do things well; weather is very hot, but I'll try... It would be nice to make a v15 in summer. I will also continue training in plastic, since there are 5 climbing gyms in Boulder. When I get back to Mexico, I pretend to go to Mineral del Chico, and then to Peñoles again!