Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

V12 with a Broken Pulley - Hans Christian Montenegro

 
V12 with a Broken Pulley - Hans Christian Montenegro
 
June 22, 2013 - 
 

In the spring 2013, I went to Niagara Glen with some friends. It was my first time at this bouldering place. At the first moment, I didn’t have any expectation and I didn’t think that the park was so beautiful. I was lucky that my friend David invited me to go.  Now, I can not wait to come back... In this post, I will talk about the V12 problem that I did.  Next time, I will talk about the whole trip.

The first day, I was so exited because I was feeling in very good shape. But, something happened and everything changed. I didn't take good rests between the warm up problems that I did. So, my fingers became too tired. The worse thing was that I continued to push harder and harder.

The result was that two hours later, when I was trying a V10 with a small crimp and a small dyno, I broke the pulley of the left hand (annular finger). This situation arrived because I put too much pressure on the crimp. Then, I heard a weird noise and I felt my finger without force. I knew that something was wrong but I really wanted this V10. So, I continued and I finished the problem.

After that I could not crimp with the left hand. So, All my projects for the trip and the spring were gone to the garbage trash. I could not believe that my trip was a waste of time, money and energy. So, I tried to be positive. I decided to rest some minutes, I put tape on my finger and I tried a V12 close to the V10 problem that had broken my pulley (I know it was not too smart).

On my first try, I was really surprised because I was climbing without too much pain. Then, I realized that this problem didn't have any crimp move. I was very happy to realize that my trip was not finished yet. Then, I decided to work on that V12. The first day, I figured out a beta for me. The second day, I decided to rest (it was an advice from my friend David). The third and last day, in the last minute, I did the problem. It was amazing, because a try before I had fallen after the crux. So, I tried again and I did it. I was so happy and I could come back to Montreal without any regret.

Here, you can see the phoenix V12.

Thanks for reading and watching.

 

Join the Community

Popular Stories

Indian Creek to the Red Rock Rendezvous and Beyond - Chris Schulte
04-08-2014 - 
Back again for another Red Rock Rendezvous, this time fresh from the Utah...
Plastic & Rock: ‘Tis the Season…for both? - Angela Payne
04-14-2014 - 
There comes a time every year when the weather begins to improve, the...
Sweet Sandstone - Nicholas Milburn
04-11-2014 - 
What is a better way to spend spring break than bouldering on sweet...
Final Days in Guadalcazar - Urs Moosmuller
Urs Moosmuller
04-11-2014 - 
Most of my trip to Mexico has been spent climbing in Guadalcazar, Mexico....