So these past two month for me has been all over the place, from climbing a lot and competing, to doing nothing but studying, to lots of cross fit. Let’s start with the Uncle Sam Bouldering competition. This is an even held by another gym in the Dallas area, with an open category a well a beginner, intermediate, and advance. This comp had a three hour red point round, then a six person final on one boulder problem. After warming up, I unknowingly got on one of the top five boulders and sent it fairly easily. I don’t know what was going on that night but I tore through the top five boulder problem and was done climbing after thirty minutes. It was fun being a spectator for the rest of the red point round, with power house Clayton Reagan there as well, it was cool to see from a different perspective. Finals started around ten PM, and I was extremely well rested, and felt really good, and with close to 200 people watching I was beyond psyched. The boulder was just big hard man move on gastoning slopers with a couple tricky flip moves, to a gigantic last move to a technic sloper. I was the last person to go out of the guys, and after doing a flip move I heard the crowd just going nuts and I knew I had won. I ended up getting to the last move and falling three times. This event was really cool for me because I’ve never been in a situation like that before. The next morning a couple buddies of mine then drove out for the Capital City Crux in Austin, Texas.
Spring 2013 - Kyle Francis
This event was similar to the one the night before, a four hour red point, then a final, but with four boulders instead of one. About an hour into the red point round I had done enough of the harder boulders to be in finals, and ended the red point in second behind Nicholas Milburn. Finals was amazing. They had u come out world cup style, one by one, and the crowd went nuts on every boulder. The first boulder was a slab climb that took me two tries. I basically just wiffed grabbing the finish, got on and sent. The second boulder was in a dihedral with opposing slopers that you pressed in between. As soon as I stepped on I knew it was go time and before I could think I was at the top. I just went into this crushing zone. Ironically, the comp could have been decided after this boulder, but I’m not going to spoil it. The third boulder was fun volume climbing where every competitor did it a different way. There’s a video on Facebook, however I couldn’t figure out how to add it on here, so here’s the link (https://www.facebook.com/kyle.francis.5811?ref=ts&fref=ts). Nick and I tied again on this one, however he did so in one less fall. Then once we hit the fourth one I was feeling it. Just so gassed, and it all hit me at once. My first couple tries on the boulder I just could not figure out how to stay on the wall, I just kept squeezing and falling and just thinking it was impossible. Then it all clicked, however, once I got up to the really hard moves, I just pooped out, I was wrecked. Then Nick Milburn comes out and starts moving similar to me, just looking very confused. Then right before time went out he got on and did totally new beta and just destroyed the boulder. It was really impressive and I was really inspired! Nick was first, I ended in Second, and Joe Gifford ended in fifth.The comp itself was pretty amazing, and the guys who ran it were super cool and super psyched. The problems were amazing, the atmosphere was amazing, and I can’t wait to go back next year!
After that comp weekend it all went downhill. AP exams were coming up and I’m the idiot who as a senior took really hard classes. I pretty much spent the next four weeks re-learning calculus and physics. I wont bore you with my school issues, but its all finally over! After AP exams I spent most of my time playing football, ultimate Frisbee, sand volleyball, and soccer, therefore getting my cross training in.
For our past two nights at practice, our team was fortunate enough to have Sean McColl come and help coach and guide the kids. Working with him was amazing, inspiring, and helpful. Not to mention he I absurdly strong. What was fun for me though, I every practice I show the kids I coach a climbing video, to help them analyze, and get psyched, and a week before Sean came, I showed a video of him in Paris. Needle to say the kids all went nuts.
Tomorrow I leave for divisional and the red, terribly out of shape, but I am so damn excited!