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May 2013: Training, Setting, and Coaching - Will Roderick

May 2013: Training, Setting, and Coaching - Will Roderick
May 29, 2013 -  Will Roderick    

With both final exams and summer quickly approaching, I’m looking forward to more outdoor climbing when school gets out – I’d like to go back to Stinson beach in the next couple weeks. Over the past month, I have been able to do a lot of training, coaching, and setting indoors. The Touchstone Bouldering Series finale was held at the recently opened Dogpatch Boulders in early May. It’s an amazing gym with just about every angle you could ask for. The competition was pretty stiff, but it was great to get back together with the Bay Area’s best climbers (as well as those from farther away).


My training has been mostly at the usual Planet Granite and Stanford gyms, but this past weekend, I was able to visit home in Berkeley, CA and climb at Ironworks. As a recently certified setter, I have become much more perceptive to different climbing styles, so I now more clearly see the difference in problems and routes among these gyms. I have found over the years that I, myself, have a very characteristic setting style – namely large, dynamic, gymnastic moves – so I’m working on branching out a bit to give the climbs a larger variety.

Recently, I’ve been setting every week at the Stanford gym, which has been great! I’m looking forward to setting at Stanford’s new gym in the fall. And though I have mostly been coaching the Stanford climbing team, I had the opportunity to coach the Zero Gravity Team at Touchstone’s Mission Cliffs in San Francisco this past Wednesday. I am always incredibly amazed by the rising talent – the young climbers just seem to be getting rapidly better and better.


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