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Brown Sugar in the Mummy needle in Montserrat - Ferran Guerrero Hervas

Brown Sugar in the Mummy needle in Montserrat - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
May 26, 2013 - 

In 1969 he wrote and grabava Brown Sugar, but not commercially available until 1971 this great song by the Rolling Stones classic, a song that more than one has desgallitado singing it and served as inspiration for the name and Old School via the respiratory Montserratinas, located in Sant Benet in the Mummy, marks a style and trend of the time with prefabricated prey, always tough reputation despite its difficulty and insurance apart, open at the top in 1981 and whose first ascent ran by M . Millet, and V. L.Martinez Viciana in 1981, a classic old school of Montserrat that could not miss in the suitcase.

Brown Sugar, was an outstanding track had to do, but never find the right partner for this type of track, Kalvin is eager to do it and if not lavish much on multi-pitch routes makes this particularly exciting, we finally get put day and date, well in advance mark on the calendar, and weeks go by, not having that motivates me especially, there that after a while without climbing stairs, and where together we spent so many days, we are going again.


La Momia fotografiada desde Gorros Foto: Victor Tardio

So there we were bright and early to avoid afternoon we did is that we already okay, so early start is the habit of going to make meters has consequences, not the sun gives way to yet so we've been quite cold.

First pitch: Roll with insurance 6a + fair, if I remember correctly four total in a spread of 15-20 m (some reviews say 20 I would say 15, is shorter than it seems), this re-equipped with parabolts , a council, if it is just this difficulty climbing better to abstain, not in Ae can be scaled or anything similar must climb between safe and secure and move and above all to want to make a living and surfing, we resolve this long to view magnesium anything anywhere, not the time that no one comes around, careful not to make mistakes, the route starts at the Tim channel, shortly after starting the Brown Sugar to his left goes a path with black parabolts (or oxidized) Pleniluni 7a and just to our right the Albert-Cervera, already looks a sling bagueta and abandoned in the bolts, the Brown Sugar stretches follow a parabolts silver (not shiny Fixe), this first meeting is not rapelable.

First Pitch of Brown Sugar

First meeting point, + two bolts no look in the photo

-Second pitch: The more good all the way, is about 30-35 m of pure continuity and a look into it step in between, here there are many safer, some quite remote and climb between them, so that played fall flight take off the card, it also has come to light, and I enjoyed as a kid, falls more than it seems at first glance, prepare for a good long, here Kalvin was becoming very tired but noticeable. You can butt first, second and third pitch, leaving a roll of 65 m super good.

Kalvin start the second pitch

Another climbers in Boy Roca to Elephant rock

Self Portrait at the second pitch, the sun begins to give us

Third pitch: it is much simpler than previous ones, but it is still a good long, two variants or the Aranyes penjants that go straight to the hole and feixa or below a small hole to go to the right until you reach the meeting of Valor, where you can join this and go straight and top in two lengths. Kalvin has trouble solving this long, he has hit a bassoon, up to the last meeting of the Brown Sugar, while I assure I see that is not fine, so the Brown Sugar is chained and got out, the idea was to go out but the value of my fellow conditions was not possible.

-Drop: If you just want to make the Brown Sugar are three long, with two strings of 70 m rappel will you plant in the ground at the start of the track.

Kalvin in the thrid pitch of Brown Sugar

The Mummy, via Brown Sugar, right at the last meeting long shot taken from the Lower Magdalena by Victor

Kalvin was not well, had been a good climax out the value or another but against that you can not do anything, just happy because the idea was to make the Brown Sugar, Kalvin had a dream and I want to make the had in the project list, a good way Old School, everything and have some chopped hardly see or rather what I've missed any, between the cold and which was not marked by magnesium, recommended a way to enjoy.

Panorama West face of Montserrat

Topo of route Brown Sugar


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