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Recent Doings and Future Plans! - Wiz Fineron

 
Recent Doings and Future Plans! - Wiz Fineron
Recent Doings and Future Plans! - Wiz Fineron
 
May 18, 2013 - 
 

Its been a while since I have made a post on here so this is just a little post about what I have been up to recently and what I plan on doing in the future. Including recent Media appearances and also a Video I made about my recent first ascent in NZ.

 
 

Since returning back from my three month long bouldering trip in the states, where i visited both Hueco Tanks and Bishop (Read more about my trip on my blog at http://worldofwiz.blogspot.com.au/) I have been trying to adapt back in to the 'Normal Life' back at home in NZ. After spending so much time bouldering over the past few months I have been super keen to tie back in to a rope and get sport climbing again. During my short period of time spent back at home before flying to Australia I spent my time training in the Gym and climbing out on the rock as much as possible. It was clear that bouldering for three months straight had made me much stronger at pulling harder moves but it was obvious that it was going to take a while before my endurance was back to normal. I wasn't to worried about this as i knew that i was going to be doing a lot of climbing in the near future so i knew that i would get it back eventually.



I spent a couple of long weekends climbing at the North Islands steepest and best sport climbing crag called White Falls where i managed to tick off a few of the classic routes of the crag. First Breath After A Coma 29/8a (first go), Crag Vultures 30/8a+ (2nd go this season) and Snake Oil 30/8a+ (2nd go) I also had a quick play on the long standing Immortal Technique Project and managed to pull all the moves so i was pretty keen on coming back for this before leaving for Australia. The following weekend i returned and was interested to see what could happen if i focused all my energy in to this one route for the few days. I had three days to work and hopefully send the route so i was very excited to get started. After three days of work it came down to my third and final shot of the day, making me pretty nervous as this was my last opportunity to do it as 2 days later i was flying out to Australia on the start of my open ended climbing trip. I managed to climb through the first half of the crux pretty well so i was feeling good setting up for the last hard move. A large drive-by/dyno move to a huge jug. I put everything i had in to it and before long i clipped the chains and made the first ascent of the North Islands Hardest route 'Immortal Technique' 32/8b+. https://vimeo.com/64279521

Two days later i arrived in one of my favorite climbing destinations the Blue Mountains, Australia and since then i have been climbing every day possible trying to regain that lost endurance from bouldering for so long. I have slowly been working my way through some of the classics of the local crags 'Tutu Sullied Flesh' 29/8a, 'Tsunami' 29/8a, 'August 1914' 29/8a, 'Microwave' 30/8a+, 'Temptation' 30/8a+, 'Inertia' 30/8a+ (second go), 'Point break' 31/8b, and 'Pooferator' 31/8b. I have been here for about five weeks now and have been climbing a lot and am feeling much stronger than when i first got here. Some of my more prouder sends would be 'Search And Destroy' 32/8b+ and recently i did my second 33/8c. An awesome climb called Moon Shadow.

My plans are to stay here in Australia for at least another month or so climbing as much as possible and i guess i should do the odd bit of work. After this i hope to continue my climbing trip and head to somewhere in Europe. Where? Not a hundred percent sure yet but my plan is to wait and see what time of year it is when i leave Australia and then i will figure out where will be the best. There are so many world class areas i want to go to but i have to say Spain is at the top of the hit list. Im sure i will get there eventually, im just really excited to spend all my time Traveling/Dirt bagging and climbing all around the world visiting as many world class destinations as possible.

 

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