As I write, it’s snowing. This past weekend it was almost 80 degrees. I don’t envy Colorado meteorologists. Like typical Colorado, the weather has been fluctuating between sunny at 75 degrees and 19 degrees with two feet of snow. In between spring snow storms I’ve been searching out dry areas to climb. By sticking close to home I have lucked out and been able to climb despite the massive snow fall we’ve been experiencing. Fortunately, close to home crags include: RMNP, Elkland, Red Feather Lakes, Horsetooth, Poudre Canyon, and Carter Lake.
A few weeks ago I heard of a new crimpy line in Red Feather put up by friend Jason Nadeau. Jason is always exploring and finding new rigs, usually ones that I like. With the potential to climb on new rock Paul and I decided to mount up.
The climb, Dark Matter, is a steep little face in between boulders. It starts on a jug ends on a jug with good crimping in between. The crux is moving off a small spraggled right hand crimp to a left gaston off a right heel hook. The move takes accuracy and tension because the gaston is small and the face is steep. Fortunately I had my 5.10 Dragons on which fit into the heel hook like a glove! After getting the gaston, there is a really fun power move to a sloper jug. And like all my favorite problems, the top-out is easy.
I snagged the 2nd ascent of Dark Matter, V8. PSYCHED!