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New Routes of Traditional Climbing in Sandstone Rock - Ferran Guerrero Hervas

New Routes of Traditional Climbing in Sandstone Rock - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
New Routes of Traditional Climbing in Sandstone Rock - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
New Routes of Traditional Climbing in Sandstone Rock - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
New Routes of Traditional Climbing in Sandstone Rock - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
New Routes of Traditional Climbing in Sandstone Rock - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
New Routes of Traditional Climbing in Sandstone Rock - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
New Routes of Traditional Climbing in Sandstone Rock - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
May 01, 2013 - 

With great reluctance to disclose the information in these ways, and since Met was visiting was time to speak with him, with Oriol and Met have been the drivers of these pathways and openness, but also do not want to fall into oblivion or be altered.

In the end we thought it best to share information that was available to keep it secret and one day arrive and find everything riddled parabolts / chemicals, when here the climbing is possible without the use of expansive. And so we want to keep it, by several factors, is a privately owned, the owner allowed us climbing with this condition without manipulasemos modificasemos-rock with holes, and so this ever since. In respect to openness, to the rock and the environment, and the evolution of climbing and still maintains hope, anything is possible and over the years we have realized that.

From 2010 to 2012 we opened five-way in traditional style in this needle and an adjacent, so there is only one pick in the top of the exit outlined here, the fifth way that is not in the reviews are descended from a tree on its top (where you can ride meeting).

Type of rock: Sandstone of excellent quality, which means that when it rains that let it rest for 48 to 72 hours to completely dry, otherwise it will deshacera our way, will break the few dams frank, etc, etc.

Type of Climbing: Mainly on cracks and chimneys (difficult to protect), the cracks are well protected except Bolts No No holds the 8th or Gypsy in Berlin 7a are more physical.

Protection and material: All kinds of friends, from micros to large numbers like 5-6 or Big Boss, we've never needed or hooks / hooks, tascones, tricams etc, would be possible to protect the tracks with slings and knots, do not use any nails kind since being a rock so soft the bad would narrow.

For all routes with a rope 60-70 will be enough to scale them both down, important carry-eight-rapelador plate to lose all roads.

Lost in my mind 6b +, was the second track open at this needle starts to the left of all of the needle and made ​​a voyage to the right by the thin fissure until it gets into the interior of the two needles and proceed through the left diagonal crack that stretches to the top and climb the edge of No No Holds Bolt has also been made ​​out by the Rift Macia-Guerrero (a variant) in the bottom of the cruise allows protected with microfriends (allien one black and poor), but the fall is good and flat on the ground (you can skip), once in the fireplace, the crack on the left lets you protect yourself with friends of all sizes up to number 3

Guerrero-Macia crack 6a, the first way we do with Oriol Macia "Quo", the start is from the base of the chimney where the highest concentration difficulty and it is not until we are involved at all and we have overcome the first four meters we can not protect it, you can put friends from 1 to 3, the route continues through the center of the chimney to the top, where you have to move from side to side of the hands

No Bolts no holds 8a, the fourth way promoted here Met took us three days and my work, until December 31 we conducted 2011mientras's snowed both when the display and I picked it up there it seemed like a very futuristic way, just have shaped dams , are all movements of balance and this magnificent ridge compression will be required to extreme cold up here. For me this means is a step in the insurance difficulty floating, where the fact "fall" is prohibited and behave surely end in the hospital with broken limbs. It is advisable to work the way before top rope. The only protection that we saw last viable two lower crux, once upright on the shelf is where we make the mantle can be protected via two microfriends. Apparently in the horizontal fissure micro start would be protected, but makes two rock steps and a chaos of stones on the bottom that would go down to stop there, this part is possible with many crash pads protect. First ascent Ferran Guerrero and Second ascent Jaume Garcia "Met" on December 31, 2011

The crack of fear 7b, this was the third way that was done, and stepped bottom view previously untasted top rope, not knowing the state of the rock, without clean off any loose stones, etc., was a chain narrates epic as well here, made by the writer, and would not repeat, then had great friends and fall here would end up in the hospital course. The route goes up the north face of the needle and attacks the central portion of the ofwidth looking from the top, to the depiction of the climbing is not complicated, but get inside and turn to one side or another and discover what each which is better to live the feelings in person. Material required microfriends (useful allien black) and friends from 6 if you want to protect the ofwitdth, (in the first ascension was not used, not them) useful to have a Big Boss, a flat ribbon long as it is possible to lasso the tree , so yes, if you fall you get trapped in it. First ascent and unique: Ferran Guerrero January 2011.

We are aware that in the early '90s, two climbers tried to climb this same route and rising from first suffered a fall from pretty high and had to come a rescue to get him out.

Gypsy in berlin 7a, this was the last track promoted, there are two types of bows, a small crash with a large shield where you can place two microfriends and this shield is to make a stand and mantle, falling from this point there is a problem since you just place the protection, but now comes a grip plate about 5 meters without possibilities to protect and with a step a little precarious. Material microfriends. First ascent Ferran Guerrero and Second Ascent Joan Panades , the decline is from a tree on top.

We hope that either way, the small area is not altered in any way, to allow us to keep the name and how to get to the area in question, as we have agreed, you want more information from unauthorized access, etc. so please send me a private mail and we will give indications enchanted, who is not interested in this type of climbing the place does not appeal at all.


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