Bouldering comp in Austin? That can't be all that cool. WRONG! It is awesome. Austin Rock Gym held their first ever Capital City Crux comp and I say it was a success. ARG did some amazing and much needed remodeling to the gym to prepare for this thing. Before it was an old manky floor and unused wall space. Not anymore. They tore out the big island which opened everything up and gave an entire new feeling to the gym. Even though the walls were the same they felt much better. They also replaced the floor with some big soft pads. I landed awkwardly on my butt from pretty high and didn't even notice. If you had bad memories here make a second trip. It will rock your world.
Dalan Faulkner, Kyle Francis (Tiny), Brendan Mitchell, Delaney Miller, and Tiffany Murphy drove down from Dallas for this thing! They just climbed at a comp the day before, so they were all wrecked before this thing even started. It was great meeting up with these guys.
Qualifiers was redpoint format. Redpoints are always fun. I think they are more relaxed and more social than onsite. After everyone finished up crushing all the amazingness that the Austin setters had to offer we all went out and unicycled around. Brendan improved and is learning to hop. He just ordered his own Kris Holm unicycle. This kid will be riding in style soon enough.
We ate some delicious free burgers provided by ARG then prepared ourselves for finals. Unfortunately Dalan missed finals by one place. Isolation had an adorable little curtain that really didn't do much. In finals we had four problems for male and female. I'm not sure how the female problems turned out, amazing I'm sure. I know the male routes were amazing. First we had this slab climb that was hard. I had to get a mono gaston thing to move my body around. Second climb was some powerful sloper pinches. The third climb is where it got real. Some crazy inverted climbing across volumes with an upside down knee bar and then a right side up knee bar. I this beta up, but it was still awesome. None of us could finish it, but we got close. The last climb was burly. I was some hard movement through those Teknik Svelt pinches followed by a move to a good crimp, but I was so tired I could barely hold it. Then you jump to a undercling which I barely caught then jump to the finish jug.
I took first with three tops! Kyle beasted it up a came in second and Brendan third. Delaney walked everything and came in first, Sarah Williams in second and Tiffany Murphy in Second. Everyone did great! It was an awesome comp with a good crowd and great problems! Thanks Austin!!!
The next day we had some fun swimming in a spring and bouldering in the Green Belt. Joe took us around for a little bit while we tried some of that Texas limestone. Before we said our farewells we ate some power doughnuts with chocolate, sugar, bacon and all sorts of other healthy ingredients.
Until next year Capital City Crux...