Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

Hurtado-Carbonell to Paret of Diables - Ferran Guerrero Hervas

 
Hurtado-Carbonell to Paret of Diables - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Hurtado-Carbonell to Paret of Diables - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Hurtado-Carbonell to Paret of Diables - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Hurtado-Carbonell to Paret of Diables - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Hurtado-Carbonell to Paret of Diables - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Hurtado-Carbonell to Paret of Diables - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Hurtado-Carbonell to Paret of Diables - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
 
April 15, 2013 - 
 

A few weeks ago, in front of the computer screen saw some pictures of the way the Howard-Paret Carbonell of Diables in Montserrat, I began to remove all books from home, internet reviews ask repeaters, etc., and not why but I got the idea between the eyes that we could go to free it with my mate Oriol Macia, ask J.Coma, Dani Brugarolas, and everybody agreed that it might be feasible but that the last original length just not, well, then gradually have passed the weeks until we get to square one day.

The estimated time that we have read in different places, talking about 6-7 hours and that was our time, access to the Cami de l'Arrel coming out from the shelter of Santa Cecilia, in about 40 minutes we were about to walk via , you have to take the detour that goes right up to the via-Carbonell CADE and Hurtado, the former coal and looking up the obvious. although few climbers passing has led to closing this access will end, and you have to cross a small jungle.

Firts Pitch 6a+, (common for various ways), we realize from the base of the wall, and go after a tree, and there goes the first roll of 6a + that is protected with parabolts, mounts meeting at the end of the channel, in a large tree (very comfortable meeting) to upload and then upload here Oriol, tells me that if I do not mind pulling all the way from first yujuuuuuuuuu uhmmmm not say that this debut NO.EL securely with parabolts, the rock is almost good.

Second Pitch II-III, is a voyage to the right for a few shelves (hanging forest), a pair of plates encomtraremos the meeting and giving access to the CADE (tree meeting with a baga), this long and we got to the next ledge comfortable (mount tree meeting), this long gives access to the first open-cleft dihedral.

Three pitch 6a, easy terrain climbs parabolt hata first and from there goes doing, find some old metal chisel with more than rusty, gravers many found in the second part of track are recoverable with veneers and these are very rusty , well above find another bolt, in between can be protected with a little friend, but if you bring a 3 also you can use, but you'll have to drag the rest of the track. This is very good along with good rock, especially going climbing in dihedral crack rather than at the end of the long straight line found in the meeting (two parabolts with ring and chain, and several chisels), from here you can still leave or out of the way, from here things can make complicated, long undo should abandon material.
 
Fourth pitch V/A1 (7a), This has long chisels and nail some days you are the, the rock is very poor and small slabs but as you go and you are left cleaning up small strips on the crack scale well with some tightening step, the Dificultat basically focuses on the output of the fissure to join the meeting, making it come out a little slump and cost a lot, this long I could climb all free and stay in a difficult 7a, the passage of more cordate would a rock much more good and does not give a long trouble free rush in, here you need not place any empotrador, but when a finish nail may disintegrate spend with friends.

Fifth picht Ae (6b), and we read that at the output of the fifth over, two of the plate had broken chisels, so here a couple got along tascones prepared to strangle the burin (chaa still have the title), this long has the rock in worse shape than the previous , from the same session can put both tascones, this is another long rush to get in free 6b being a difficulty, you have to climb smooth as the feet and hands are very poor and can break at any time after the last the first installment and revolving long into the rock dihedral is more good, right at the beginning of the meeting to find crack chisels, (8 burins)
 
Sixth pitch 6a+ (6c),This is definitely one of the best all the way long, allowing a dihedral cleft be scaled in different techniques, dihedral, crack, BAVARIAN, abutments, etc., most of this with chisels and long recoverable rusty plates, a nail and cue no longer be desintegroal pull the rope, sling passed some stone built, no need to bring friends for this long but if you wear them you will put on all 3, the length is to go climbing, now at dihedral now crack, hata you get to the bottom of a roof and the right surround (nail as you mark the way), once this last stretch is you plate about 10 feet across with chisels, hole and some potatoes, and here I was out tapes, so a small friend was the one who protected the way, the meeting shall find below a small floor-mounted crash, is very comfortable.
 
On the difficulty of this long, nothing stable in all the sketches and reviews we've seen the same difficulty and Oriol much as I agree that much difference, but I honestly think that one over 6c else, if compared with its long neighbors the difference is very large.

Seventh pitch IV, we saw that the best option was to go to the right, by l'Llucifer waited for, watching and watching the original long ultmo Hurtado-Carbonell, we saw that there was no chance of being free is a scaling chisel to chisel roll to make the output of the fourth degree, if the time of the opening had been located two meters burins ma right (along the edge) had gone a long free good. So we decided to keep climbing in free, along llucifer l'waited for a long of 40 meters a little lying and climbing is done on good potatoes and a hole, find a chisel and a friend can get small (got one pair), at the end you will find the meeting (two chisels).

Once there's only one grimpada 150 meters to the top of Diables, us to go faster doing it in assembly. At the top the best direction is to go down and down El Bruc right onto Canal dels Avellaners, give less to go back to the Cavall Canal.
 
It is the third time I'm on top of Devils, has always been on a different path and always make you look long last a solution to peak too different, GAM, Sanchez-Martinez-Carbonell and now Hurtado

And to celebrate the visit to Victor and Anna Bar recuperate, thank you very much to be fooled by Oriol Macia, and all the heat we had in the first long after we were with a perfect temperature. If he had roped in Normal Cavall Bernat made ??us a photo, you can put you in touch through here, thank you very much.

 
 

Popular Stories

The life of a Working Athlete: Juggling Climbing, Work, Training, Overtraining, Rest and Life. - Melissa Strong
Melissa Strong
08-11-2014 - 
Like many others out there we are the working bees in the climbing/life...
Donner Summit's King Line - Urs Moosmuller
Urs Moosmuller
08-11-2014 - 
Father’s Day is the hardest established route in Donner Summit and one of...
Cascade Idaho 2014 - Nic Rummel
Nic Rummel
08-10-2014 - 
I had such a great summer developing a climbing area near Cascade, Idaho....
August at Kochel - Muench
Muench
08-03-2014 - 
The second half of August, I had to fight some toothache, a nasty...