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Heartbreak Crux at Red Rocks - Seth Rogers

 
Heartbreak Crux at Red Rocks - Seth Rogers
Heartbreak Crux at Red Rocks - Seth Rogers
Heartbreak Crux at Red Rocks - Seth Rogers
Heartbreak Crux at Red Rocks - Seth Rogers
Heartbreak Crux at Red Rocks - Seth Rogers
Heartbreak Crux at Red Rocks - Seth Rogers
Heartbreak Crux at Red Rocks - Seth Rogers
 
April 11, 2013 -  Seth Rogers    
 

Last weekend, I went to Red Rocks outside of Las Vegas with 5.10 athlete Nick Bradley, climbing buddy Cameron Read and my little brother Ethan. We spent most of the time projecting at the Gallery Wall, but also spent a day at the Tsunami Wall.  We tried the Black Corridor, but since it had the only shade that afternoon, it was a zoo. It was my first time at Red Rocks, so I didn't expect to send anything serious. But then I saw Nick on-sight Minstrel in the Gallery (5.12b). He recommended that I give it a try so I did and I sent it on my third try.  This was my first outdoor 5.12 and I was very excited!

 

Last weekend, I went to Red Rocks outside of Las Vegas with 5.10 athlete Nick Bradley, climbing buddy Cameron Read and my little brother Ethan. We spent most of the time projecting at the Gallery Wall, but also spent a day at the Tsunami Wall.  We tried the Black Corridor, but since it had the only shade that afternoon, it was a zoo. It was my first time at Red Rocks, so I didn't expect to send anything serious. But then I saw Nick on-sight Minstrel in the Gallery (5.12b). He recommended that I give it a try so I did and I sent it on my third try.  This was my first outdoor 5.12 and I was very excited!

I also got Abandon Ship, (5.12a) on my second try, and was starting to really like Red Rocks. Now that I had broken through the outdoor 5.12 barrier, there was one climb I wanted to send – The Gift (5.12d). A couple of years ago, it was the softest 12d you could find. But holds broke off, and holds eroded away over time, so it is now considered a solid 12d.  It is a long pumpy route with the crux near the end.  I call it a “heartbreak crux” because you work really hard on the route only to fall at the very end.

 I worked it for two days, and got up at 5:30 am on the last day to give a shot before the long 8-hour drive home. I finally figured out the crux sequence that morning.  (It needs to be a sequence that works when you are already pumped.) However, I was too tired from 3 hard days of climbing to complete it. I usually climb in Arrowheads outdoors because they are comfortable, but footwork was so critical on The Gift, that switched to my Teams. It was a great trip, and I can’t wait to go back and send the Gift.  The hot weather’s coming so I may have to wait awhile.

Photo credit: Nick Bradley
 

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