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ARRRRG - Nicholas Milburn

 
ARRRRG - Nicholas Milburn
ARRRRG - Nicholas Milburn
ARRRRG - Nicholas Milburn
ARRRRG - Nicholas Milburn
ARRRRG - Nicholas Milburn
ARRRRG - Nicholas Milburn
ARRRRG - Nicholas Milburn
 
April 02, 2013 - 
 

This past weekend was my first comp of this year's SCS season! Back to ropes, tall stuff and endurance training. Since it was also Easter weekend I had and Friday off of school, so I went out to Austin early and went to Reimers Ranch and climbed some of that Texas limestone. The first thing I got on was Prototype which was my project for a long time when I was a wee boy. It feels much easier than I remember. I walked down and met some friends of mine from Houston at the House of Pain wall. I jumped  on Rain Dance which awesome. Then I did House of Pain which is equally awesome.

Chris Meacham suggested I get on Lord of the Dance (5.13a), so I jumped on that and sent it second try. I then tried Irreverent Youth (5.14a) and did a nice bit of flailing, but made it to the top. This route has one of the sharpest holds I have ever grabbed. It's just a tooth you dig one finger behind and pull off it. PAIN! Phil put me straight on Jade when I got down. I did it, but I was pumped out of my mind. Joe and I got on Block Party next. This is one of the more famous climbs at Reimers which is funny because it is the least Reimers style climb out there. It is an awesome climb with some crazy weird finishing moves.

Our last climb of the day was Elephant Man. This is now my favorite climb at Reimers. It runs out this dead horizontal roof with big fat stalactites the whole way. I through a bunch of knee bars and with the help of my Five Ten Neon Knee Bar pad I got two no hands knee bars. Joe went first up the route and got most of the way up, but it was getting pretty dark. I Had to go up it to get Joe's draws. I flailed around in the dark with only the flash of my camera lighting the way (camera flash does not help much for climbing by the way). Day one = success!

Now for the reason I was in Austin. Joe and I had a plan to tie by flashing all five of the hardest climbs at the comp. We ended up doing just that and then tried this crazy slab climb. which was still below the top climbs. Joe got it on his third try and a flashed it. Since we flashed everything else this slab climb was our tie breaker. I won by two tries on the slab. I didn't even know they counted back routes like that. It was a awesome competition with great routes. They even set some routes for my little sister's height. I also got to watch some acroyoga in action.

After the comp Joe and I went to a spring feed pool and swam around. I was a bit surprised when I found out it was a topless pool. Fun surprises.

My last was spent at Flat Creek. This place is short and steeeep! My core hurts from climbing there. Everything is hard, so we warmed up on two 5.12d's which were great climbs. Once my flash pump went away. We got on a sick 5.13b that had a cool double toe hook in a pocket. I ended up not being able to figure the toe hooks out and powered through it, but Joe got the toe hooks. Then we got on another 5.13b with a super powerful boulder off the ground then it gets easy to the top. Everything at this cliff tops out which is weird for me. If you had big balls you could huck back flips off the cliff, but you might die because it's so short. Our last climb was something Nick Duttle was trying. I think it is a possible 5.15 or something, but I'm not sure what a 5.15 feels like. Joe and I couldn't do any of the moves though. I think we each did a total of two moves.

Well, that's it for Austin this time. Next weekend is SCS Open Nationals! Time to get my man pants on.

 

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