This year we did not want to miss the holiday we had ahead of Easter, so Laia few months ago came up with the bright idea to go alone for a week with our small to Fontainebleau, and I have to say thank you, go alone implies some handicaps when scaled according to problems, but in the end I think it was more positive than negative, but not if you've noticed in chains and how well we have managed our time.
Fontainebleau 2013 - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
I can add to Fontainebleau?, Shortly, to me is one of the best places to boulder, near Yosemite and the Peak District, all for my have a common bond, which is how they lived and practiced bouldering nothing to do with our country, silence, peace, no screams, the Bas Cuvier can be full of people and feel the silence, rags, brushes, I like coming here because it's essence, I like to boulder here, because these quiet, Fontainebleau is essentially everything and have many more practitioners than previous years, you can enjoy peace of mind.
Now comes the second part of the trip, post-bleau depression, make do with what you have at home is difficult, so I do not know when to take the mat again intensively as in Bleau, already thinking about when to revisit our Fred and friends Sandra and spend more days in the forest, buy candy at the Boulangerie de l'Elephant as every year, visiting Fontainebleau in the evenings and enjoy as a family as we have these days, many thanks for taking Laia back to forest.
Day 1 Sector Cuvier-Bellevue and Bas Cuvier
First I wanted to visit Cuvier-Bellevue, which is the sector that is to the right of the Bas Cuvier, we were doing two years ago Duroxmanie, but this year I wanted to try Michel Ange, to get this wet shoulder that step will leave me dead the rest of the week, so do not think that is the best option, we heat with different problems, while the small sleeping, with the new guide 5 +6 is easier to find all the problems and heat and know that these scaling step, opening year, climber, etc.
-Le Feuillet 5
-Roxane gauche 6a+
-Le Vieux Bleau 5+
-Angel Face 7b Onsight
-Sisyphee 7b+ Onsight
Sector Bas Cuvier
-l’Angle Incarné 7b (1977)
Day 2 Sector Franchard Isatis
Isatis, here we always have job to do, is a sector that we like five minutes from where we stayed, is perfect to go with the small, this day and most always went to the counter in time than the rest, at 8 : 50 am and we were climbing, is what you have a sheet that at 6:30 in the morning you wake up and want activity, for that to take hours.
This repetition is a problem that had already done and take me to view Les Boules 7c, a boulder opened by Pascal Le Denmat, for my climbing style easy to watch, but very good I pressed not to fall in and coupled to the terminal and knew I had it in my pocket, Laia wanted to take some pictures and saw no problem repeating it, my surprise was almost ripping my fingers small strips, as deceptive things and feelings, happy for what would this chain, to end the day we went to Alta, but the dam starting wet roots and Laia fall not to deal with two things a girl running down the mountain and I doing output stack to avoid falling blocks.
Day 3 Rest, visit a Montmartre (Paris)
Whenever we come is mandatory visit Paris, wanted to go to the Louvre, this time I led my wife artist-painter-artsana, what better guide than her, I wanted to see the work of my favorite painter Claude Monet best there until we realized that "on Tuesday the Louvre is closed", change of plans, we will shop at Le Vieux Camper in the Latin Quarter and then spend the afternoon in the Montmartre district.
Everything and the history of Montmartre is a place for tourists, I reminded me to Plaza del Pi in Barcelona, although most charming, and still well guided by the hand of Laia I explained adventures and misadventures of the artists Paris in the Montmartre became more entertaining.
Day 4 Sector Elephant
Everything and get very good way for the project that I wanted to try one more year, and we are a few, everything lined up to be a day to climb slightly. Arlet fell asleep to reach sectors, was perfect to us non-stop climbing and go for slaughter, but this day said the Elephant Sector liked, that the beach sand had very good taste and she wanted to see a stone elephant.
Our job as parents was rather little climbing this day try hit loose, but difficult to concentrate, go see a baby crawling and your fighting with a blade.
So little could try Parteneire Particuler 8a, a block since I saw 11-12 years ago I want to, I have always tried and increasingly evolving a little more, this time also sounded the flute and the stars were not aligned, I has served as a test to see where he walks with difficulty my project here.
Finally when I had tried a lot of boulders, he had done nothing, wet-wet, the small, etc, finally fell asleep, and yet can be quite petado du proue The figure 7a, a boulder old school, with a very particular method to solve it, that if, with two mattresses, and best not to fall too high, a problem that is getting out of a blade and a power good right hand, the problem is not fly up, once it's left hand starts to bounce around an edge, until there is a moment that the right hand no longer has contact and the problem is to make n Johnny Dawes style as I told the group of English, bounce with only the left hand along the edge to catch the strip where just good edge, join hands and make the last step, a problem well, well good
This sector had not ever visited, and I liked it, is a very small sector and not used to being crowded, we arrived very early and soon came a boy of Stockholm, single, with a small staircase, just refine Big Dragon 8a + and solved it in a few attempts, the forest was in peace, only his video camera.
We warmed up in a few easy problems, the day was colder than usual, and it was our last day of climbing, so we had to take, my fingers were going well, as the previous day at the Elephant Not that it spent a lot of skin. The aim of the day was to La Baleine, but an attempt had enough to see that if the leave falling Laia made a chrome and I could do no damage blocks and blocks, she struggled with Quelle So planes, planes that bring surprises in the near future.
And I kept looking for my projects until I qeu sulking with a wall that was perfect for the whole family, there did to view Le poids des Soupirs 7c, according to a release guide, if you are a bit higher is a dynamic movement that it was like I could do me no problems, a good problem, which I was lucky and was in my size, I thought it would cost me more and I had seen Le Mur du are 7c / c +, but believed that if invested many attempts in the Le poids ... I could not devote myself to this, using the good luck I worked Le Mur du are 7c / c + I struggled to find the foot accurate for me, one of the times I got to reach into the last dynamic but or hold the door, here thought chained him, and then started to get worse in attempts, pinched strips I would start eroding force. As always Laia said "Get some rest, almost before you did" just should ignore.
In the next attempt to strip all the choreography and feet worked perfectly and make dynamic the last song left me stuck up, three steps to ride me and I was, is undoubtedly one of the chains that I have more satisfied Bleau done, cost me a lot of effort and motivation, a problem of my style, side strips and movements in neutral.
So we closed the escalating cycle Bleau, very happy with everything.
The day of our arrival we celebrated the anniversary of Frederic Vizy, 50, a Bleusard from head to toe, although our small party hard, is what you have small crios and night before our return the anniversary of Lydia (David Periñán and Tomasina, a Canadian climber who is living in Bleau, we could say goodbye to friends who I had not met, Urrutia, Josep Maria Vives, Davilo, etc, and the nice Sandra, Fred and girls met Iker and Silvia, though nothing could climb with anyone, as I said we were going backwards Urrutia schedule worldwide
For John Randulfe I have a separate chapter, I had a great time talking and laughter hechandonos, are unique titan, thanks for everything, the next sure we organize ourselves better, good luck with your projects.
We had a perfect week, conditions that He had not found in Bleau, no rain any day, feel good, and good company, and we long for, thanks to Sandra and Fred for treating us so well at home is always a treat .
Preparing Bleau next vacation.