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Working on the Project - Ferran Guerrero Hervas

Working on the Project - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Working on the Project - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Working on the Project - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Working on the Project - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Working on the Project - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Working on the Project - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
March 17, 2013 - 

Soon I could take the Saturday morning, but the two hours I could scarce were fruitful, and had stayed with Ignasi Saruka to spend the morning climbing up Savassona, but arrived later than agreed and I made ??up my time to leave, my duties in the study claimed me, but was good for two hours, which were ultimately more successful than I expected.
I heated with easy blocks and went to block Morpheus, repeated therapy there, a tall block plate and technical climbing very English, the key step is to get up on a Pebble, I love this, is authentic in essence, not has variants, or eliminantes, no way to perform the steps required not only Le Methode.
So I have one hour ahead and little, I start with the project that for years I have escalated between the eyes, is pure essence. located to the left of Morpheus technique plate with micro strips, key step monodedo tip phalanx media, balance and purified feet technique, does not let, a style block Bleau, the first movement may not I quit that day and another if, and so slowly deciphering.
With my method the last time I managed to solve the first move, take the tip monodedos, yet there is a bit of moisture left hand strip the skin opening is going to leave the mark in the first phalanges, but also the tip of monodedo punishes you and not allow too many attempts.
This year I have been able to test twice, I think I have a third, the calo already entered and I have not been too much for the boulder to devote all my efforts, but it motivates me the way I'm working from distance and without haste, nor are lining up to try it, or have an interest in the type of climbing involved, is perfect for me.
Yesterday I had what for me was a big step, but a step forward, after several attempts and see that I have three different alternatives to solve the first move, I again monodedo tip catch with his right hand, but this time I got up the elbow and weight so you can load up your left foot and start loading weight to relocate me, I could only repeat this crux twice, but enough to make me leave it in gestural memory recall, a little preview of the whole puzzle that remain to be resolved.
This project has many special things, among them that is the only thing left to settle in this beautiful block, which is nothing commercial is very gestural positioning and tension, as well as feeling.
Among all previous teacher Fred Nicole when she visited here for 5.6 and 7 November 2005 for a screening in the city with his brother, dropped a couple of days Savassona, he worked two major projects still remain to be scaled, Kalma (SIT), which was very close to solving (below) and the project of which I speak.
The project described in these lines, it is not technically be scaled, but it would give the first ascent climbers frequent the area, met all the movements in an elegant way, the crux of the step and the next crux monodedo side of the terminal to which no one has gone back and stood on the last dam that is the most good and only perform the last movement is the problem and get on the boulder, once there jump to the mat, taught us the method although their method, much more animal than mine, did not rule, do not talk about grades or difficulty, and continued climbing.
There is this project expected to climb even a first officer, but for me it will always be the first of Fred Nicole ...


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