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Hueco! - Kyle Francis

Hueco! - Kyle Francis
Hueco! - Kyle Francis
Hueco! - Kyle Francis
Hueco! - Kyle Francis
February 28, 2013 -  Kyle Francis    

Hueco this year was a little different than its ever been for me. I was guiding on North mountain, where I had only been to once or twice before, meaning I knew where just about nothing was. Other than the whole exploring a lot, the trip went really well for me! I came away with a slew of double digit boulders. Day one I took the kids up to the top of the chains so they could work on the See Spot Run boulder (Dark age (v11), Barefoot on sacred ground(v12), and See Spot Run (v6)) all boulders I had done the year before, so I just kind of spotted them for a couple hours. We ended up meeting other five ten athletes Josh Levin and Cicada Jenerick. Josh and I ended up doing Fern roof (very soft 10) second go, then Wild Turkey (v11 second go) both climbs could probably get down graded a few grades, but ill take the points! Later we went down to Loaded With Power (v10), a climb I ended up flashing by the skin of my teeth. the other climb I did that day that actually took me the most amount of tries was Choir Boys (v9), a classic climb! It ended up taking me three go’s. In all, day one went really well for me and I was psyched!

The next day I kind of spent it doing the same thing, just a lot of spotting for the first half of the day, but then the rest of the day I got to climb a lot. We got to go over to Free Willy (v10), an incredible climb. It climbs up these perfect crimps, with a huge move for the finish. I tried it one time, fell grabbing the finish, tried it one more time, falling on the same move, splitting the first pad on my pointer finger. I figured I only had one more go, so I went for it and just hucked all the way to the finish, skipping the last move and sent! Later that day we went over to Martini Cave where I tried shaken not stirred (v12).  All the moves went consistently except one, which was disappointing. That was the one climb I really wanted to do while I was there. After that we went over to Black Mamba, which turned out to be literally the most beautiful climb, but hardest of its grade. Came away with no sends on either unfortunately. St the end of the day the cut on my pointer finger took up a good porting of the pad and hurt like hell. Luckily the next day was a rest day where I could go get super glue to at least subside the pain while I was climbing.
Day three of climbing went really well. Almost identical to the day before we climbed, lots of spotting until the end of the day where I did Tequila Sunrise (V12) in about thirty minutes, which I couldn’t try that much just because my fingers kept bleeding, and I would have to wait for the super glue to dry, but I got it done in a bloody mess! Climbing after that was pretty good too! We walked up so I could try Loaded Direct, which after about thirty minutes felt only a couple tries away, however the park was about to close and we had to get out.

Day four was a beating. I was just so wrecked. I tried Power of Silence for a while, but the only issue is that I couldn’t fully crimp with my right hand cause I was being too big of a baby. The rest of the day we just explored and got on fun easier stuff. The trip though was one of my most productive and I can’t wait to go back! I leave March 9th  for four more days of climbing! 


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