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La session de Kathy - Hans Christian Montenegro

La session de Kathy - Hans Christian Montenegro
February 28, 2013 - 

Val-David has become almost a home for me. I really love this place. There are many good problems, some of them easy and some very hard. But the amazing thing is that all the problems have something to teach to you. I think that’s the real reason why I climb.

I don’t believe in a universal level of climbing. For example, just because someone can do a V8 doesn't necessarily mean they can do a V6 or V7.  The best approach to training is not just improving a general climbing level, but improving one or two specific types of movements that you struggle with. Then, in your next training cycle, repeat this process with 1-2 other moves. Each movement is specific, particular and unique. The position of the body, the inclination of the boulder and the type of holds make each movement unique and non-generalizable.  That is why a climber may be able to do a hard V10 but he may not be able to do an “easy” V6.  His body may understand the movements in the V10 problem, but maybe he never practiced the special movements required in the V6 problem.

In my case, I want to show you the problem "Session de Kathy." This is an amazing problem. The first time I tried it, I thought that the problem was easy, but in my second try, I realized that this problem has many important movements to teach to me. So, I let the boulder teach me the way to climb. 

This problem took me 3 sessions. The first session I did very well and I identified 3 critical parts in the "Session de Kathy." The first critical part is to do a high heel-hook in the middle of the problem. The second part is to reach the end edge of the problem. Here you need to be focused and committed because you are tired and it is easy to fall. The third tip is that the top-out of the problem doesn't have a good hold to grip and then pull. You need to put your body in the right position and then use your foot to climb up. So, you can see that each part needs different skills.

What did I do?

Fist part: I had to improve my heel-hook and my body core. I did some exercises at the gym to learn this kind of movement. I visualized all the time how the movement is and I tried to reproduce the movement in the gym.

Second part: I took a route approach. That means to me that I practiced my rest, my recuperation, and climbed when my arms were tired. I also did some exercises to focus my mind.

Third part: I did many problems in the gym with different top-outs. I practiced doing a top-out without hands and used only my feet.

In my third session, I went with a friend of mine, Martin Morissette. He is a very nice guy and climber. He made this video where we can see this amazing problem in Val-David. I hope you will enjoy it.

Thanks for watching and reading.


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