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Hueco 2013!!!! - Joseph Gifford

 
Hueco 2013!!!! - Joseph Gifford
Hueco 2013!!!! - Joseph Gifford
 
January 29, 2013 - 
 

This winter break I took my annual trip to Hueco Tanks for a little more than a week. I drove out to Hueco with my coach John Myrick and the ARG climbing team to camp out and climb. For the six days that we climbed we only went to East and East Spur which kept us quite occupied, most of the climbing days were pretty good in terms of weather and sending.

The first day our guide took us to a new climb called Mad Bunny Face that was a V8 but there was also an alternate climb kinda off to the right of the climb which had not been climbed before. I did Mad Bunny Face and then sent the harder climb right next to it getting the FA which I called "Bunny in a Blender" which seemed fit for the V9/V10.

The second day we went to East Spur and I decided to get on the Chupacabra which I had tried in previous years, it's a really cool over hanging V10 that climbs out of a hole, I sent the climb second try which really psyched me up for projecting Nagual V13  (its mostly big moves to really bad crimps with no feet) every year I try it I start to get more and more progress on the climb, this year I did a couple more moves I couldn't do last year, it's hard to project. I only had two days out of the five to work on Nagual, but if  I had more time I feel like it could definitely be sent.

After the two days of climbing we took a rest day and then took a tour out to East Mountain where we got on Moonshine Roof and Power of Lanyeager, "Power" is a overhanging 11 with a super big throw off of a bad pocket and an ok hand slot, it took me a quite few goes on the dino to get "Power" but it was eventually sent and was actually my first V11.

The next day we went to East Spur once again and I got on a climb that I had wanted to do for many years called Focus which is a really awesome high ball V10 and the crux was about 15 feet up then an easy top out on a lean back underclean ledge. On my third try I was at the crux ,which is going off a sloper to a bad gaston, and I grabbed the gaston but barn doored, fell, and missed the pads, it hurt a bit but I got on again after some recovery time and sent it, the top of the climb gets a bit heady because your'e about 20ft up and you just have to lean back on the underclean ledge but even so I sent Focus and really enjoyed my first hard high ball. Luckily, we had our second rest day the day it dumped snow with really strong winds but unfortunately the day after was pretty wet and snowy so we had to take yet another rest day.

Our last day in Hueco was definitely my best climbing day of the trip. It started out pretty dang cold but ultimately turned into a beautiful day. We eventually ended up at Shake n' Bake V11 , a powerful roof climb with a huge reach at the end I got it my first go of the day, doing it so quickly gave me more time and energy to do some other hard climbs. My coach suggested that I do a V6 high ball called Tall Cool Red One It was a bit scary I have to say but it turned into a really great climb after I got over the head game. We then went to Try Hard V9 ( a very stout V9) I gave it a couple trys and sent it with useful beta that another climber gave me.

I had a great time at Hueco Tanks and I was sad to leave with so many projects I still want to do but nonetheless, Hueco has some of the best bouldering in the world and I hope to make it out there again this spring.

 
 
 

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