At the beginning of this month I went to Red Rocks, NV. Which is one of my favorite places to climb. I love the sandstone, the amazing incut crimps, and the proximity to Las Vegas. Although the weather was much cooler than I expected, especially in the canyons. I was able to climb at the Kraft Boulders, in the sun, every day. Paul and I were shown some new development up Gateway Canyon. One of the new problems is a fun little V6 called Three Steps to the Door. I got the FFA!
I also did a variation of a problem called Slice and Dice V9. Slice and Dice started on two opposing crimps but it looked like the left hand was broken so I started matched on the right hand. This definitely made the climb feel more like V7. This caused a little debate within our crew; I started on one of the designated start holds but by starting matched I was able to go right hand first. Technically I started lower and still used all the holds. But did I do the problem?
After discussing it, and because in this case starting matched made the problem easier, I am claiming a variation and calling it Sly And Dye V7. Even though a little contrived it’s a fun crimp line to an easy but tall 20 foot top-out.
Paul made a short video of our trip to Vegas, the video can be found at http://vimeo.com/57817084
Upon returning to Colorado I hurt a ligament in my thumb at work. Unfortunately I have to immobilize my thumb with tape when climbing. Luckily this only restricts me from pinches and slopers... With my thumb taped and the weather a perfect 48 degrees I headed to Horsetooth Reservoir to try a crimpy V9 I’ve been working. It’s Power Scout, a variation of two eliminates on the Talent Scout boulder at Rotary. Power Scout starts on Talent Scout V6 and finishes on Power Glide V8. After working out the body positioning I fired! Now I only have one more line to try on the boulder, THC V10, a harder start to Power Glide. I’m excited to start working it.
So far 2013 is starting out really well. Despite a silly injury I am psyched to step up my training (we’ve been heading down to CATS once a week) and finishing off projects!