We spent the Christmas and Newyear's holidays far from the crowd of (skiing) tourists that “invaded” Chamonix. First week we were in Hyeres (Cote d’Azur) with big Nico’s mothers family- we were 30 for the Christmas evening! Of course we were not only taking sun baths, swiming and walking along the coast; with Nico we visited three times Cimai, not far away. I climbed in Cimai 19 years ago! I remember I couldn’t do the starting boulder of a very nice colonette, Rodeo 7a. So it was one of my objectives this timeJ I admit it was not easy, but I did it! Then we tried some classic 8a’s. En un combat douteux went quite fast, it’s my stlye of climbing on small holds. Orange mecanique (soloed by Patrick Edlinger) turned out to be much harder, especially when you are small. Well,smaller then 170. There’s one move I don’t have a chance to do it. I found other solution, but should be around 7c boulder problem, I think. Maybe next time. But otherwise I really liked the line and the moves; it’s unique to climb such a crack in the limestone!
Second part of the holydays we spent in Buoux in a nice company of many other climbers. I made some advertisement on the Facebook, that we were searching climbers motivated to climb with us; Buoux is not really the perfect spot to take kids under the wall, so we needed somebody to climb with me in the morning and Nico in the afternoon. We also found a great place to stay , gite Les Borys on the plateau of Claparedes. With the sauna for the rest daysJhttp://www.provence-luberon-news.com/en/Location-Luberon-Provence/Location-vacances-Luberon/Les-Borys
Facebook turner out to be useful, we were more then 20 for the New Years’ Eve!
Climbign some hours a day is actually good in Buoux, because the skin starts to hurt fast on the sharp pockets; especially on the extreme routes as Nico was trying – La chiquette du graal 8b+ mainly on the one finger pockets!
I was happy to do my first 8a in Buoux, Dr. Jacob and some classics as Polka des Ringards 7c and La chevre et le choux 7c.
Now we are back in the real winter, in Chamonix, where the conditions are perfect for skiing. But unfortunately I can just watch the slopes, I got blocked in my back, don’t really know what is the reason, so I have to rest for some time without climbing and skiing L