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Totxo de Can Jorba & Aresta Arcarons 185 m 7a - Ferran Guerrero Hervas

 
Totxo de Can Jorba & Aresta Arcarons 185 m 7a - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Totxo de Can Jorba & Aresta Arcarons 185 m 7a - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Totxo de Can Jorba & Aresta Arcarons 185 m 7a - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Totxo de Can Jorba & Aresta Arcarons 185 m 7a - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Totxo de Can Jorba & Aresta Arcarons 185 m 7a - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Totxo de Can Jorba & Aresta Arcarons 185 m 7a - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Totxo de Can Jorba & Aresta Arcarons 185 m 7a - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
 
January 06, 2013 - 
 

"Who runs for the first time this region and has a sensitive spirit will be very happy to receive the call of beauty that emanates from everything around him: rocks, nature and life seems to offer us their humble energy as friendship, as if for the sake of their own is involved. those who have climbed there, we perceived ourselves came from that mysterious something of our being, and sleeplessness was probably produced by direct contact, to the grace of our essence nomadic lead us to this little known "mystical sanctuary escalation", where is its dome Montgròs and tranquility their god.
 
When we returned from there, we brought engraved in the heart in the message found carved into the rock and decorated in green and blue; Els Plecs of Llibre and La Roca dels Llamps have a vigorous language that makes lift our spirits to capture notes this message free of blemishes and spread all corners of this mountain heraldry.
 
This roadmap to Superior Plec is a real diva ascension and is located in the range previously cited of silence and hidden untamed beauty formed by Els Rams Plecs, these leaves open a huge book unique in its kind and grace, which is this long ridge of the most attractive routes around Montserrat."

 

Garzia Antonio Picazo-Montserrat Most interesting ascents, page 205
 
He described to this entry closer to meet God with climbing AGP itself of Arcarons Aresta and well thumbed through and looked and looked again this review thousands of times since I bought this book in 94 ', a track that had like going to do but for one thing or another, to seek other interests was not the time or the companions, until now it has combined, and by the way I used to explore the terrain really interests me.
 
So eve of Twelfth Night, we agreed to meet in Montserrat, first on Friday will be an intensive sport climbing, walking walls Can Jorba had never visited, and we start to warm up pitch, Kalvin already has enough today and decided to go Can Totxo Jorba to where I am campaigning, the idea is to finiquitandolas all and my idea of ??making the penultimate view via the left's 5.13b attempt to find truncated block to step out of the roof that it breaks all expectations .
 
At the second attempt I find that when launching and solve the output sequence from the ceiling, to throw myself into a hole well, I was not tipped off Kalvin to do that and I find that to make the move the rope pulled me down, the grigri was blocked to make my sudden movement, nothing happens, and floating was very good, the third attempt I take this route and block making super-good, one of the early kings gifts, and is one less in the sector, we collect , took all day and we're standing we do not endure.
 
End up spending the afternoon between Victor and Anna Bar Kalvin left, I expected my solo bivouac in Nova Vinya but to make time pass between Esparraguera afternoon and Collbato with Victor until it comes time to my recollection, does many years since bivouac in Montserrat, and always remember him as something special, was the prelude to a great day of climbing, so very early we can start climbing the Aresta Arcarons and be back soon, small creatures have obligations at home.

I'm meeting Jesus Morales at 6:30 in the morning to go do the Aresta Arcarons, is a long road that I have wanted to do but it's hard to go find a partner, having that aura makes no exposed many people want to go, but one day talking about my intentions in Plecs of Llibre with Jesus, offered to accompany me, and so made an eye on what interests me, and has made the only want to do a long first and I offer to do it all first.

After a bivouac movidito finally wander and sleep after watching the starry sky and at about three o'clock I was awakened by some animal, noticing something in the back, while he was, was small, just a little fox, who wine to smell you with my cookies, but I could not fall asleep until when I did, at 5:50 my alarm sounded, to time, collected my sweet bivouac, and I prepared what was left of my cookies and a couple infusions.
 
Jesus arrives at 6:30 and picks me up, we went on a road parallel to the Jod de l'oca well for about 1 hour, and we walk the path Arcarons, it's 8:00 o'clock already we are climbing and Jesus is asked to make the first long, no problem for me, come to the meeting and climb half-jokingly telling me how great they are cats, seeing us go up sneakers with a laugh and break the ice .
 
From there I shot all the long way to the top of the first, the last over Ae comes in free (I had read in a blog, it was just a squeeze a bloc), is only one step of block and already , explain what all the pathway have done on countless blogs, so I did not lengthen, only you do not need to bring any friend, the key steps are well protected and meetings with the exception of the last before the top are all parabolt and rings with rapelables.
 
The Aresta Arcarons is reputed exposed, bold, etc, etc, my vision of climbing is very different, not think it's a way exposed, daring in time when it opened, but currently not exposed (just my view), the graduation of long, soft, non-fifths or sixths of time as I read sometimes, are normal, but is a way of knowing that move and orient limited to where you see straight up insurance, we magnesium seen two meters on each side of insurance, demonstrating that more than one life a lot more complicated.
 
I repeat that this is just a personal view of how I feel and live my climbs, one eye Ignore me, who will find her exposed and friends who need to carry, everyone to use the information as best believe that's what the guides climbing with better judgment than mine to describe the information, I just climbed and explain my feelings, is a way in which you can do harm, each is responsible for its climbing and choose where you embark.
 
The descent, you have to know well, first a 15-meter rappel (the meeting is a little hidden below Montgros top and looking after a small grimpada another Plec, a small desgrimpada and last grimpada fourth grade, that eye no one would break a dam because here if you do not mind, that if I found delicate and good savina a rebate of 60 m to the ground.
 
After two intense days in Montserrat, alternating with the wall parabolt unprotected and a bivouac under the starlight, I understand the thinking of AGP, today I felt freer than ever in my life.

 

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