For the past few weeks I have been staying in the Red River Gorge of central Kentucky. The climbing here is world class and this season has seen a strong group of climbers come and destroy every hard route in the area. Seeing a large group of some of the top athletes in the world is truly inspirational. Every day at the crag we saw athletes like John Cardwell, Adam Ondra, Daniel Woods, Nick Duttle, and many other athletes from all over the world. The energy was really high at the crags and every one was motivated to send their projects and enjoy the perfect fall temps. During this time one of my friends showed me an unrepeated traditional route that was just recently put up by Andrew Gearing in the beginning of this year. Since then it has seen very few attempts and was rumored to be one of the best traditional routes in the Red. The route is located on the second pitch of Long Wall in the northern region of the Red. This region sees very little traffic compared to its popular southern region and on busy weekends can be completely empty. When we arrived on the first day there was no one and looking up at the route from the ground was breathtaking. To reach the route you have to climb an awkward 5.8 dihedral to a comfy ledge where you can sit and relax with a perfect 180 degree view of the gorge. After enjoying the view for a few minutes and taking in everything, I got all my gear ready and started up the climb with everything feeling perfect. One of my friends from New York shot a video of the ascent on his iphone so the footage is shaky at times, but the route is really asthetic and one of the best lines in the Red. Enjoy!
Great climbers aren't born, they're made and the place that they learn their...