Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder

 
Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder
Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder
Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder
Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder
Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder
 
November 29, 2012 -  Markus Eder    
 

I haven’t climbed on this cliff for a long time. I’ve already done most of the good lines, all other projects are wet most of the time – an excuse can always be found. Stop – there is one route left: Klem Loskot’s balcony project!

I’ve tried this route three years ago but back then I had no idea how the moves could be done. Klem hasn’t done it, so maybe it’s a little bit harder…

After a DWS-trip to Mallorca in 2005 I lost contact with Klem, probably caused by his climbing break and my absence because of the university. Last month Klem called and the silence was over. We exchanged news and fixed a date for climbing together like in old times. Where are we going to climb? Of course, we are trying the balcony project!

Klem had a perfect beta for the start and for the crux we combined our ideas. A few days more of work and Klem showed me how it should look like – for 18 years a project and now it’s done! The beer afterwards at the pub was self-evident…

One week later and two climbing days more in the route, I found myself at the pub again -I managed to put all the six moves at the bottom together and to do the crux move into the two-finger pocket. The easier upper part was a pleasure – even with cold fingers. What a great feeling!

 

Popular Stories

World’s Most Dangerous Hikes - Colette McInerney
Colette McInerney
09-19-2014 - 
As a climber I often find myself precariously placed on a variety of...
TEAM NORCO INTL. - 2014 World Cup Finals - Meribel, France - Jill Kintner
09-02-2014 - 
World Cup finals saw a new venue in a small mountain town of...
I am a champion! - Hans Christian Montenegro
09-02-2014 - 
I am a champion! This is the last competitions blog for...
South Africa Part One - Andrew Baldwin
09-04-2014 - 
In the summer of 2013, with no real clue what I was I...