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Psychedelia 2012 - Greg Seitz

Psychedelia 2012 - Greg Seitz
Psychedelia 2012 - Greg Seitz
November 05, 2012 -  Greig Seitz    

October was an amazing month. The temps are finally starting to drop during October. Also, Competition season is just around the corner. During this past summer, I started training for competition season and also for climbing outside. Training anywhere from ten to twenty hours each week, I started to push through to the next level.


Psychedelia was one of the first comps on the list. My main goal was to have fun. Instead of using normal light bulbs, the Spot used black lights. They also taped a bunch of crazy designs, which is shown in the picture above. My second goal was to make pro finals. Since I have only been climbing for three years, I had never made finals before.

During the qualifying round, it took a little while for my eyes to adjust. It wasn't easy getting used to climbing in the dark. Once I got used to climbing in the dark, I started climbing on the open problems. The problems were all challenging in their own way. I flashed O1-O6. I was very psyched about that. I ended up sending Open 1-9 having fallen five times. Because of this, I tied for first and moved on to finals.

One of the employees at the gym had accidentally misplaced my scorecard. As they called out the finalists, I didn't hear my name. I was very confused, so I went to talk to the manager about this problem. He quickly ran upstairs and started looking for my scorecard. After searching for several minutes, he found my scorecard. This mistake had caused me to lose some time I could have spent warming up, but at least I was going to climb in finals.

I was the first person to climb during finals (this was because they had accidentally misplaced my scorecard). As I walked out to the boulder, I became a little nervous. I had never climbed with so many people watching me before. Thoughts of failing went through my head. As the time started, I jumped on the boulder. The boulder problem was very powerful. At the beginning, there was a tricky campus section. Then I grabbed ahold of two volumes. Right then, I knew I was about to climb through the crux of the climb. I took a second to take a breath and listen to the crowd roar. Then, I jumped and caught the double dino. Instantly I became very psyched having held onto those holds. After I had collected myself, I crossed to a sloper, then grabbed a small crimp. As my foot popped unexpectedly, I stared screaming because I was trying to not let go. After I held the swing, my right hand had slipped off of the sloper. As I hit the ground I felt like a fool. I had forgotten about the best foot on the problem. My second and final try I didn't have the strength to finish the problem.

I couldn't have been happier with third. This was my first final competition, and to have made the podium during my first pro final was great. I definitely walked away learning both from my success and my mistakes. Now I will start climbing outside some more, and also start training for the next competition.


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