This year the motivation is different to other times I like comes from scaling, many meters, forcing things free, search and find, but do less boulder than usual, and even so the weekend has gone from boulder, I started training after many years of not planning anything, but my time has turned to gold, so I have to gestionarmelo millisecond and that makes me raise, to go climbing priorities.
At the end of last week and Xevi Noguer and Panades Joan commented that I had wanted to go to make a long route and had never done any (good Xevi directly into ice but no rock), so I quickly put date, on Friday, and got it to look one way, you pretty you may be able to start and have not done, looking for so we found the Esparraguera to Gray Rock, He had not returned by the Vinya Nova and filled book interesting projects.
The weather was rain everywhere but my experience web cams and told me that there was not going to rain and it would all dry up, and so, we are very early trackside, at 10:00 we started the track and 13:00 did the rope top three
Neither Joan nor Xevi never been made via long and I prefer to do the entire route of the first, perfect for me, I like to climb to second, so to go empalmamos quickies along the first and second in a row (with a rope perfect 80 m) and the thing is fast. The third feature is the marking guide V +, this long is pretty good with a rock. The long room is treated, lying and assembly plate to the left of the small channel. The fifth flanking a small clear right up to the meeting under the nice dihedral / crack / plate
Insurance is not abundant, neither more nor less, you can completely clean, without it being complicated, for the last long in both the guide and in various reviews we saw asking keep a set of friends at # 3 Camalot, for there we took him that long but not got nothing, it is not necessary (according to the guide 35 m), either by the dihedral scales except the first 5 steps, the rest you do everything by the plate right up to the top.
The path where the whole is pretty and disfrutona, to go to that to enjoy the walk down from the top St. Jerome direction along the ridge until you find the right about 400 meters from where we summit meeting / installation rappel the Urquiza Olmo (metal chain with hook and eye) and three rappels always pull in the direction toward Nova Vinya wall we walk.