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SBC PRO - Kyle Francis

SBC PRO - Kyle Francis
October 11, 2012 - 

I recently attended the first UBC comp this year in Seattle, Washington. It was my first UBC comp other than abs adult nationals, so while it was similar, the two events were far from the same. Not many of the big names were there, however there were definitely some old-school names that I’ve been hearing about forever, Zach learner, Ian Dory, Natasha Barnes, Stephen Jeffries, the list goes on. It was really cool and different to see how those people climb and compete, and just from watching them I learned a lot about my rock climbing as well as how to better myself as a coach. For instance, Stephen Jeffries was unbelievable. That guy has just been doing it for so long that it doesn’t matter when the last time he climbed was because he can just always crush. Just to see that guy’s psyche and confidence on the wall despite not being as fit as all the other competitors was really inspiring to see.


I did pretty terrible, a combination of a respiratory infection and not warming up tends to do that… however watching the other competitors really shows how close these events really are, its anyone’s game at all times. Unless of course, you’re name is Jimmy Webb. That guy came out and just annihilated every problem, something no one else was able to do. Jimmy ended up second to Josh Larson who had an unbelievable finals round. Watching finals alone made the trip worth it. Just seeing how they handle themselves on and off the wall really taught me a lot. Also, quick shout out to Max Z., unfortunately I have absolutely no idea how to spell his last name, but he went from the last spot in semis, to 4th, which t me, is really inspiring. The entire comp was just so impactful, and if any of the people competed are reading this, I want you to know I am sufficiently star-struck, and in awe.

After the comp Other five ten athlete Alex Frit, took Nick Milburn, Kaisia P(no idea on spelling of last name), Jimmy Webb, and myself out bouldering in Washington. There is so much potential there it is unreal. All of us accept for Jimmy was pretty much on the same level, climbing some moderate v8s and 9s, but Jimmy…… that guy…. He’s just on a whole other level with the things he can do on the wall. Really impressive.


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