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Mayan Smith Gobat and Chantel Astorga Score Fastest Female Record on El Cap's Nose

Mayan Smith Gobat and Chantel Astorga Score Fastest Female Record on El Cap's Nose
October 02, 2012 - 

Speed climbing is not really something I have ever really wanted to focus on…. However, I find the mens speed record of around 2 and a half hours incredible and I do enjoy the feeling of moving fast. I started becoming inspired to set a new women's speed record on the Nose when I was in the Valley last Fall and discovered that the long standing speed record was barely even speed climbing - 12.15 hours! I felt that this was almost an embarrassment….

That Fall (last September) two good girl friends of mine, Chantel Astorga and Libby Sauter managed to take almost two hours off this time. Setting a new record 10.40 hours... A very good time, but I still felt confident that I could do it faster and wanted to try. Then in Spring 2012 the record was broken again by two girls from Colorado - Jes Meiris and Quinn Brett, who did it in 10.19 hours.


At the start of this year I had discussed teaming up with Libby to set a new record, and she had also made plans to do the linkup of the Nose and Half Dome. However, unfortunately Libby broke her leg in June. So, with her encouragement I asked Chantel to climb the Nose with me and then link it into Half Dome, which has also never been done by a female team... And here we are now!

We arrived in the Valley on the evening of the 17th, then did a practice run up the Nose on the 19th. During this climb it felt like we made a ton of errors and we also had to pass 5 parties on the lower part of the wall. We both felt like we were going super slow and were very surprised when we reached the top in 10.10 hours - Setting a new record on our practice run!

The following few days were spent analyzing our ascent and resting up... Preparing physically and mentally for our next attempt, which was also going to include a linkup to Half Dome.

After a less-than-average nights sleep, we started climbing the Nose at 3:10 am. Everything flowed super smoothly on the Nose - there was no one else on the route (other than one party that passed we before they left camp 6) and the adjustments we had made to our beta worked perfectly. It was one those rare occasions where everything worked perfectly for both of us, and we surprised ourselves by breaking our previous record by almost 3 hours. Climbing the Nose in 7.26 hours - A much better time than either of us expected!

At the top of the Nose we still felt great, but by the time we had hiked down, eaten some lunch, then done the grueling hike up to Half Dome, tiredness was definitely setting in. We started up the Regular route at 4:25 pm. Simul-climbing the whole lower half of the route, with Chantel in the lead. Then when we got to the Chimneys I took over the lead and short-fixed to the top. Fatigue was definitely setting in at this stage and we were moving slower than we had hoped, but still made the top at 11:19pm - 20.09 hours after starting the Nose!

The last part of the day, the epic descent to the Valley Floor was the hardest part of the day, but so worth the effort! We arrived back in the Valley floor after 23.35 hours on the go - Completing not only the fasted female time up El Capitan, but also the first female linkup of El Cap and Half Dome.


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