Few days ago ended the largest and most prestigious competition of the year. I was lucky that I could be part of it. After disappointment in World Cups of this year I was decided to give my best. Definitely I went home with far better feeling about my climbing.
World Championship Paris 2012 - Tomáš Binter
The world championship took place at huge Bercy arena. Together with competitions in lead, bouldering and speed competition, there was also very impressive paraclimbing championship and all qualification, semi- and final rounds of all disciplines were done in five days.
As usual, I came to represent my country in lead. The wall was the same as in Chamonix, so I could say, I've got experience from there, but in the other hand, not much positive one. The startlist was divided into two groups - I was not happy with the group in which I belonged to, I felt that in the second group it could be easier to make a good result, but it's always about the same - once you climb well, no matter who are your opponents.
First day was the qualification of women lead, so I came to have a look a them to get an inspiration. And on the day two came my qualifications. As usual, in both routes there were few moves, which made me worry. First route was slightly overhanging, with a roof part. In the lower part I passed successfully the scary moves, where lot of climbers fell. Then I got into the roof, of which I was not worry at all. And that might be the fault, I was already a bit pumped and at the moment I should do one move foot off and than turn my feet in the other side of the roof, I did just that foot off move and than hanged until I fell:) But when I found out, that even far better climbers were falling lower, I was happy with my 30. place in the route and I looked forward to the second route.
The second route led through the most overhanging part of the whole wall and saw much better than the first one. We discussed about it with Adam (Ondra) who had climbed the second route about half an hour before me, and he brought good news, that it's far easier than the first one, at least the first half of it. But a couple of climbers before me had been missing, so I should climb a bit earlier. I don't know whether it made any difference, but at least for my feeling it was not nice, to feel like I am coming late. And when I started climbing, it was terible - the route seemed not harder to me , but I couldn't do the moves with that ease as in the first route and I fought very early. Never give up and so I ran higher, until I fell, totally pumped. I was confused, I felt that the route fit me far better, but I climbed far worse. I didn't give as much, as I think I could, especially my fingers weren't working as I wanted. I ranked 28. in the second route, totally 29. in the group.
When I looked through the resultlist, lot of very good climbers ended behind me. Especially beating names as David Barrans, Yuriy Dzyubyak and others, for who semi-finals in World cup are nothing special, pleased me. It's a good motivation for next World cup in Kranj. But before it I will compete in Czech National Championship, where I've got large expectations, thanks to my win in Czech cup this year.
The competition was large, the atmosphere in finals was great, I add a photo of the crowd there.