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How did people climb before the Blanco's?

 
How did people climb before the Blanco's?
 
August 30, 2012 -  Charlie Long    
 

Rock climbing always involves footwork.  I always knew that, but some climbs really require footwork!  A few weeks ago a good buddy, Jason Kruk, invited me to come support him on a bid to climb Genius Loci, a rarely climbed route up on of the most obvious features on one of the most obvious walls of the Chief.  The climb tackles bold and delicate slabs from the base of the Grand Wall up to a finger splitter and dyke traverse visible from all over Squamish.  Even though I didn't have a chance in sending (on top-rope!) - my only saving grace was the rubber on my feet: without the Anasazi Blanco's I don't think I would have even gotten off the ground.  Five Ten really gets it done when it comes to rock boots.  In Kruk's words the Blanco's are "like bringing a gun to a knife fight."  If you haven't tried the Blanco's yet: do it!  I know Hamish Fraser didn't have the Blanco's on his feet when he did the first ascent (and that makes his effort even more impressive!) but you can: if you like hard, run-out slab maybe Genius Loci is the climb for you. I know I'm going to keep working on my footwork and wait for the cool temps of winter.

 

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